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Routes in Three O'clock Rock
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20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arch Nemesis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Tree 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Tree, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gastroblast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knobulator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Luke 9:25 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery Tour T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road to Nowhere S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Till Broad Daylight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Matt Perkins, David Whitelaw (1999) |
| Page Views: | 11,770 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Perkins on Aug 12, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
Total Soul is an eight pitch route on the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock. This is slab climbing, though with a remarkable variation to it as the climb follows a dike for two pitches, passes several interesting overlaps along the way, and has the rare distinction of being one of the routes that actually "tops out" on Three O'Clock Rock.
The difficult climbing is mostly bolt protected but the leader must carry and know how to use gear. Gear is particularly helpful for the long crack section on P4 (finger-tip-sized stoppers and up to a wide-hands cam size). It also may be helpful to place a piece or two on P2 and P7. See the attached topo for bolt counts per pitch. Pitch breakdowns below...
- 5.6, 30m, ~3 bolts. Climb a low angle short pitch past 3 bolts to a stance above a refrigerator block.
- 5.9, ~45m, 4 bolts. Uses gear. Gear protected climbing past flakes leads you over a small roof to a few bolts and a slippery white dike.
- 5.8, 35m, 5 bolts. Step left at the belay and friction climb your way directly past 5 bolts.
- 5.9, ~45m, 6 bolts. Uses gear, save your #1 cam till near end of P4. Some friction moves lead to a long featured crack protected by bolts and gear.
- 5.10a, 35m, 8 bolts. Undercling and friction climb your way to the second bolt then traverse left (easy ledgey traverse), follow more bolts over a small roof and through some fun flakes to a large and comfy ledge
- 5.10b, 40+m, 8 bolts. Climb a flake to more friction slab! Follow the bolts through a few roofs and a couple bouldery sequences. A very fun pitch.
- 5.8, ~45m, 5 bolts. Uses gear, pretty runout. Climb up and left from the belay to a bolt. Mantle over the roof and continue into the right facing corner. Keep trending up and left following bolts and corners until you reach two bolts connected by old webbing.
- 5.10b, 28m, 6 bolts. A short, tightly bolted pitch. Go left from the belay and battle steep slopey knobs until you find yourself at the summit. Belay from the big tree.
Location
From the base of Silent Running, head left and uphill from the point where the hiking trail reaches the rock. A few hundred yards later, the base of the climb is marked by a bolt on the right wall, maybe fifty feet below where the bushes give way to a rock chimney/gully system that forms the deep cleft between the North Buttress and the South Buttress.
Chains are in place at all the belays so you can rappel the route. The top two pitches are more easily rappelled by an alternate route in the trees on the right (north), for a more vertically oriented rappel.
The first of these two raps is from a set of slings on a medium sized tree, thirty to fifty feet right of where the route tops out. The second, less than a half rope below, has a chain anchor that is often overlooked, so there are slings on a large tree nearby. When you reach the anchor at the top of P2, you can do one rap to the ground with two 60-m ropes if you head towards the gully.
Chains are in place at all the belays so you can rappel the route. The top two pitches are more easily rappelled by an alternate route in the trees on the right (north), for a more vertically oriented rappel.
The first of these two raps is from a set of slings on a medium sized tree, thirty to fifty feet right of where the route tops out. The second, less than a half rope below, has a chain anchor that is often overlooked, so there are slings on a large tree nearby. When you reach the anchor at the top of P2, you can do one rap to the ground with two 60-m ropes if you head towards the gully.
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