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Mickey Finn

5.10b, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 27 votes
FA: Ron Amick, Rick Allenby, 1978
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Main Wall

Description

Thin face climbing that will force you to work on good footwork leads to a cool lieback on the Finn past frictiony rock. A few more moves will take you to the anchor that appears to have been moved up and left since the FA.

Apparently you can toprope an 11 to the left of this climb on the same anchor (haven't tried it yet).

I'd give it 3 stars but it is short, even for the gorge.

Location

Starts above the anchors for Mariah and Hangman's in a wide chimney. A short climb in an obscure area makes an available alternative when in the area. A hiker can get even with the middle of the climb making for a good photo op if you have an extra person handy.

Protection

2 bolts / bolt anchor. Both lead bolts were replaced 6/2007. Anchors look bomber. Walk off top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mickey Finn from another angle. Glare highlights the thin but fun hands and feet!
[Hide Photo] Mickey Finn from another angle. Glare highlights the thin but fun hands and feet!
Both lead bolts and an anchor bolt of Mickey Finn are visible. If you have a third person, get a great action shot from this viewpoint.
[Hide Photo] Both lead bolts and an anchor bolt of Mickey Finn are visible. If you have a third person, get a great action shot from this viewpoint.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I agree with the quality rating. It's a surprisingly fun climb, but quite short. Despite the length, I found it just as good (if not better) than most Mission Gorge classics.

When leading, I found it a little intimidating getting to the first bolt, but after that I felt very well protected. Jun 6, 2011
The Keels
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The crux of the climb comes after you clip the first bolt and must manuever to the flake. Try an easier variation (5.10a) by stemming/chimneying off the back wall until you reach the flake. Once you have grabbed that flake transition to the face and finish Mickey Finn as usual. Sep 11, 2011
AlexK
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I was pleasantly surprised to find this route after leading Crack of Dust. It is tragically short, but probably some of the most interesting and fun slab climbing I've ever done. I think 10b is a little sandbagged, but I'll take it. The thin holds just make this one a little heady. Don't you dare use the back wall! Mar 31, 2012