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Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 166
votes
Routes in Cascade Canyon
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Teewinot North Gullies Left T WI4+ |
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Snake, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Symmetry Crag 4 - Trinity Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guide's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blobular Oscillations T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Attritus T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vieux Guide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bat Attack Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hot Dogs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chilly Dogs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lower Highway to Heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Perches Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seizure Disorder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Baxter's Pinnacle - North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Complete South Ridge Barry Corbet & Robert French on 7/27/58 |
| Page Views: | 20,879 total · 97/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Huebner on Aug 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Baxter's Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons
Details
As of May 27, 2014, Baxter's Pinnacle and its southwest descent gully are closed due to an active peregrine falcon aerie. The area is expected to be opened in August. Grand Teton National Park monitors the area every year to determine whether a seasonal raptor closure is necessary.
Description
Good rock with a sunny southern exposure with a great view above Jenny lake.
The described below should bring you to a huge block for the 1st belay:
P1 Go up and left along a ramp, then go back right past a tree and belay on a ledge where the climb steepens. If you want, the steep wall directly above the 1st belay goes 5.10 and has a couple of bolts. It's a variation called Seizure Disorder.
P2 (5.6) Climb straight up the crest, which angles a little to the left as you approach a large ledge for 2nd belay. A steep crack to the right is the 2nd pitch (5.8) of the South Ridge climb. It has a couple of fixed pins low down.
P3 (5.6) Continue straight up on the south face and top out before setting up belay.
P4 Traverse (more easy) across and slightly down to a large flat stance below the base of the more intimidating tower and set up your next belay from there.
P5 (5.9) Over to the right, just to the left of the corner and above, there is a fixed pin. The crux of the climb is a one move affair to get off of the flat stance and onto the tower above the pin. From there you climb just a bit to the right of the pin and up a big, detached flake. Then a steep (5.7) lieback crack goes up and left along the very steep corner. There are 3 fixed pins in the crack. Finally double cracks lead to the summit.
Although not as hard as the complete South Ridge, a 5.6 pitch vs. 5.8 crack on the 2nd pitch, I really enjoyed staying out on the South Face. The lieback portion of the last pitch had the most enjoyable moves on the entire climb for me.
The rappel is about 75 feet into the notch to the north behind the pinnacle. You then downclimb the steep couloir along the west side of the pinnacle. Watch for loose rock.
The described below should bring you to a huge block for the 1st belay:
P1 Go up and left along a ramp, then go back right past a tree and belay on a ledge where the climb steepens. If you want, the steep wall directly above the 1st belay goes 5.10 and has a couple of bolts. It's a variation called Seizure Disorder.
P2 (5.6) Climb straight up the crest, which angles a little to the left as you approach a large ledge for 2nd belay. A steep crack to the right is the 2nd pitch (5.8) of the South Ridge climb. It has a couple of fixed pins low down.
P3 (5.6) Continue straight up on the south face and top out before setting up belay.
P4 Traverse (more easy) across and slightly down to a large flat stance below the base of the more intimidating tower and set up your next belay from there.
P5 (5.9) Over to the right, just to the left of the corner and above, there is a fixed pin. The crux of the climb is a one move affair to get off of the flat stance and onto the tower above the pin. From there you climb just a bit to the right of the pin and up a big, detached flake. Then a steep (5.7) lieback crack goes up and left along the very steep corner. There are 3 fixed pins in the crack. Finally double cracks lead to the summit.
Although not as hard as the complete South Ridge, a 5.6 pitch vs. 5.8 crack on the 2nd pitch, I really enjoyed staying out on the South Face. The lieback portion of the last pitch had the most enjoyable moves on the entire climb for me.
The rappel is about 75 feet into the notch to the north behind the pinnacle. You then downclimb the steep couloir along the west side of the pinnacle. Watch for loose rock.
Location
Baxter's is a little difficult to find. I was with former JHMG, Jim Olson in 1987. It's low on the south side of Symmetry Spire's east ridge, but it's hard to see from the east shore of Jenny Lake. It's about a 1/2 hr. approach if you take the boat across Jenny lake. From the trail jct. just west of the Jenny Lake Boat Landing, take the "horse trail" up Cascade Canyon. After about 1/2 mile, you can see the pinnacle on the slope to the north. Continue up trail to talus from the pinnacle and find footpath that leads to the base of the south ridge of the pinnacle.
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