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Routes in Upper Broadloaves - North
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Black Hand, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interceptor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stolen Thunder T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Tide Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Gene Smith |
| Page Views: | 9,894 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 2, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
A deceptively overhanging (maybe 30 degrees beyond vertical at its steepest) hand and fistcrack, it's hard to really appreciate the steepness of this one without either climbing it or viewing it in profile, from just north of the waterpump parking area.
Start in a walled in alcove (no need for a belayer anchor here) and climb up an easy (~5.8) left facing corner for about 30' to where the angle steepens. If your feet are getting cold, go right onto Tide Country (10b). Otherwise, place a high piece with a long runner and step left to a perch at the base of Interceptor. The first move is cruxy -- a disorienting transition from much less than vertical to much more -- and involves a finger jam (small pro: wires, blue alien), but after that it's all hands and fists with the crack widening as the angle decreases. After about 30', the crack pulls onto a slab and is followed to a belay at a ledge below a large boulder and the rap anchor.
Start in a walled in alcove (no need for a belayer anchor here) and climb up an easy (~5.8) left facing corner for about 30' to where the angle steepens. If your feet are getting cold, go right onto Tide Country (10b). Otherwise, place a high piece with a long runner and step left to a perch at the base of Interceptor. The first move is cruxy -- a disorienting transition from much less than vertical to much more -- and involves a finger jam (small pro: wires, blue alien), but after that it's all hands and fists with the crack widening as the angle decreases. After about 30', the crack pulls onto a slab and is followed to a belay at a ledge below a large boulder and the rap anchor.
Location
You cannot see Interceptor from the waterpump parking and it's easy to mistake a couple of other routes (Stolen Thunder & Bad Manners) for it. Interceptor faces north, is about 20' right of Stolen Thunder.
Protection
A couple of thin hands pieces for the initial corner, nuts in the 2-4 Rock range and/or blue Alien size cams for start of the steep part, then 2 each #2, #3 & #4 Camalots for the rest of the pitch. (Doubles needed to sew it up.) A couple of thin hands or fingers pieces are needed to back up the belay.
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