Striking finger crack that splits the smooth face right of Gunklandia. One must hang with the crack the entire way for full value. Stepping left into Gunklandia at any point drops the grade to 5.9.
Descend by walking up and left from the top of the route (exposed class 2+) to the bolted rappel anchor atop Return to Forever. 2-Rappels with a 60m rope lead to the ground.
Location
A mid-cliff START: Begin pitch 3 of Gunklandia. At a ledge with a large dead tree, step right and follow the finger crack to the top.
[Hide Photo] Emigrant Crack as seen from Old Town ledge
[Hide Photo] Emigrant Crack follows the striking finger crack behind the tree. It is often difficult to avoid stepping left as Gunlandia is always comfortably within reach.
[Hide Comment] It is possible to climb Emigrant Crack after staring on either Connecticut Crack, Old Town or Gunklandia. A large ledge splits the cliff at mid-height. An exposed scramble allows you to move horizontally between routes.
Jul 25, 2007
[Hide Comment] I was able to access this climb by doing Precipice Ledges (5.4) and then making a 4th class traverse right. This is good beta if your partner isn't solid at 5.10.
Aug 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] Did it a few weeks ago. Definitely the best route from that trip! Feet and the option to "cheat" and stem off the Gunklandia corner to rest/place gear dial down the pucker factor.
Though I do wish I had taken more BD 0.4 cams or equivalent...I had two plus an offset, but I could have happily placed five.
Jun 18, 2015
[Hide Comment] A really great route only brought down by the ability to step left and make it easier at any point. I don't think it's the same grade if you go left at all. That little contrivance brings the quality a bit for me.
Sep 21, 2016
[Hide Comment] God is so cruel. If only this climb was 4 feet farther away from Gunklandia. Still a stellar pitch of jamming with great gear. Resist the urge to use the corner.
Sep 1, 2019
[Hide Comment] This is a 5.9, and an awesome one at that, because it’s contrived to not use the left wall to stem. Give me a break with the eliminate, this is trad not bouldering. If I could hit it falling down, I’m damn sure gonna use it going up.
EDIT-Yup , Jiggs, and none other than Ben Townsend agrees with you, along with most of us old timers. Bob Hall, Admin.
Oct 13, 2024
Avg: 3.4 from 84
votes
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
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Santa Rosa Valley, CA
Dover, NH
Los Angeles, CA
Though I do wish I had taken more BD 0.4 cams or equivalent...I had two plus an offset, but I could have happily placed five. Jun 18, 2015
Climbmore, USA
Fryeburg, ME
EDIT-Yup , Jiggs, and none other than Ben Townsend agrees with you, along with most of us old timers. Bob Hall, Admin. Oct 13, 2024