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Routes in 04. Air Spire
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Moss Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Phallus in Wonderland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Littlefinger's Coup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Return of the Chucklehead's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aimless Foreshadowing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Michael Dvorak, Nate Kutcher 1998 |
| Page Views: | 18,794 total · 87/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Riggleman on Jul 13, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
One of the area's classics in my opinion, Air should not be missed. The crux is around the first bolt, and from there to the top you get to enjoy fantastic exposure and massive holds.
Start in the dark dihedral on the southeast corner of the Air Spire with the first bolt about 15 or 20 feet up. Some stemming and jamming gets you past the first two bolts, then it's a low-angle jug haul to the chains, which are about 15 feet below the summit on a large ledge on the southeast corner.
Air is found on the southeast corner of the second main spine. It's labeled in a picture on the main Necedah page of this site. The first bolt kind of blends in to the dark rock, and you might have to look a little higher than you'd expect to see it.
Start in the dark dihedral on the southeast corner of the Air Spire with the first bolt about 15 or 20 feet up. Some stemming and jamming gets you past the first two bolts, then it's a low-angle jug haul to the chains, which are about 15 feet below the summit on a large ledge on the southeast corner.
Air is found on the southeast corner of the second main spine. It's labeled in a picture on the main Necedah page of this site. The first bolt kind of blends in to the dark rock, and you might have to look a little higher than you'd expect to see it.
Protection
6 bolts, three bolt anchor. Some gear will lessen run outs on easy ground but not essential. 60m rope will get you to the ground.
Nate Kutcher adds
It was intended that a 5.6 leader would take a couple of pieces of gear, hence the high first bolt. The 4th bolt has been loose since it was placed as the rock is quite soft and the cone just wants to spin in the back of the hole. I never replaced it because the bolt is 6" long and placed at a downward angle so outward pull should never be an issue. It is much the same as a drilled pin. The top anchor was never meant to be lowered off of. It is best to rap off the side, towards the river rather than over the route. You need at least a 60m rope to get to the ground going that way.
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