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Makunaima

5.11c, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 23 votes
FA: FFA Mike Forkash and Alan Wolman
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Gibraltar Area > Cold Springs Dome > Makunaima Amphitheater

Description

Start on steep jugs, gain a wide crack, climb past a potentially loose horn, then fire through a series of strenuous finger-locks to a small roof. Pull the roof into more burly finger-locks, then traverse off to the left to exit. If you feel bold, go straight up to finish on a difficult and run-out boulder problem which pushes the grade up to a 5.11d. Makunaima is rarely led and often top-roped.

Location

Obvious line up center face of the shaded cove on the North side of the crag. You can't miss this one.

Protection

Wide (#4 Camelot) to fingers. Doubles in fingers not a bad idea if you feel nervous.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dave Griffith on Makunaima (5.11c), Cold Springs Dome <br> <br> Photo by Frank Brodarick
[Hide Photo] Dave Griffith on Makunaima (5.11c), Cold Springs Dome Photo by Frank Brodarick
A local trad hardman boldly leading where few have gone before. Just past the first crux on Makunaima.
[Hide Photo] A local trad hardman boldly leading where few have gone before. Just past the first crux on Makunaima.
Fear not, for if you peel you'll still enjoy the swing!
[Hide Photo] Fear not, for if you peel you'll still enjoy the swing!
It's steep! Good view of the upper crack.
[Hide Photo] It's steep! Good view of the upper crack.
For most locals, Makunaima is a stenuous but uberfun TR on ever-so-slightly overhung rock. A rare trad classic in the SB area.
[Hide Photo] For most locals, Makunaima is a stenuous but uberfun TR on ever-so-slightly overhung rock. A rare trad classic in the SB area.
Contender for tallest route in SB.
[Hide Photo] Contender for tallest route in SB.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] I don't know about "few" leads. It's been led a ton. It's just that the wall has about 10 routes across it and most of the locals have (or maybe had) it wired, so running laps was the general activity. These days it's a lot quieter up there. Great wall, though. Jul 30, 2008
Hutch Axilrod
 
[Hide Comment] Its a sweet route. However with soft sandstone and a "loose horn" save the lead for a route that gets more sun and has better rock. Keep it clean and bring some clippers to help maintain the trail. Apr 2, 2009
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Well worth the modest but strenuous hike (if you're spoiled by the likes of the Nose approach). Thought I'd clarify the gear beta. Smallest cam: .4 BD or yellow TCU. Biggest cam: you can place a new #4 BD, or could get by with #3. Probably want doubles of most of these sizes unless you have it wired. 3 bolts at the top, so take one or two long cords for the TR. Aug 11, 2009
Dan Hehnke
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] I used to toprope this before I was into placing gear about 5 years ago. I just hiked to it sans partner today just to see what it looked like. Clippers no longer needed for the approach of course, since the fire. The route looks the same..the horn is still there. Is it really loose? I was thinking that the concern was probably that someone would sling it for pro and take a big whipper, but it seems you could easily get other gear in instead? Guess I will just go toprope it again and take a look. Jan 2, 2010
Kai Ewert
Ojai, CA
[Hide Comment] the ratio of leads/TRs this sees is small - that may be the most accurate way to say it. no high end crack skills required. I would give the direct finish 12a for sure - bouldery. Jan 18, 2010
Orlando Warren
[Hide Comment] The "loose horn" used to be loose, before someone went overboard with the glue. Years ago you could get it to loudly crack. AFAIK it has been stable for years.

I'd agree with Kai that the finish is more like 12a. For years it was rated that until some guide came out. I think it's a case of folks top-roping the crap out of it, then downrating it. Oct 10, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Hahaha. Hey Orlando! I didn't rate it that. It was consensus. 11+ or 12a; what's the difference?

Lots of great routes and varations on this wall. Unfortunately they're all topropes as we had the crag wired and bolts would slow things down. If someone wants to lead it seems like now's the time to get that going. As Brigg's once said, "there's no glory in it" but, I dunno, not finding much glory in anything I've bolted and there would be some great climbing in it. Someone should retro the cliff as it would be one of the best climbing areas in SB for sure. Mar 15, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Okay, Steve put it out there!

I would love to retro-bolt that cliff. There, I said it. To be sure, I wouldn't slap bolts on Makunaima, but the other steep lines would be fantastically fun to lead. What is now an obscure TR crag with one really good hard lead could be, as Steve put it, the best sport crag in town.

Any dissenters? Supporters? Mar 15, 2012
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
[Hide Comment] Lets do it. Mar 15, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
[Hide Comment] Bolt it! I can help in early April. Mar 16, 2012
Anonymous User
[Hide Comment] I know nothing about bolting (and can't climb hard enough anyways). But I can stand belay for someone if they wanted to work on it. Mar 20, 2012
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Support! Apr 12, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
[Hide Comment] Best route in Santa Barbara? Yes. Would anyone be opposed to me cleaning the flakes out of the upper crack section? May 14, 2012
Phil Requist
[Hide Comment] The route goes on gear and should not be retro bolted. Jan 14, 2015
Jack Hereford
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] For those interested the direct finish can be protected with a somewhat finicky red tricam in a pocket next to the big hueco before venturing into the top boulder problem. I feel like the other routes on this wall should totally be retrobolted. I've spent a lot of time up at cold springs lately and think the wasted potential for good clip ups is a bit of a travesty (especially in SB and our profound lack of tall rock!) Just my vote. Either way Makunaima is one of the best routes in the area and more people should get up there! Feels like the SB alpine Nov 14, 2015
jake w
mammoth lakes, california
 
[Hide Comment] FYI the direct finish has seen some breakage and is now a project requiring some heinous moonboard-esque dynamic movement. Mar 26, 2022
Sam Fearer
805
[Hide Comment] Arrived a few days ago to find the (somewhat critical) exit hold to the regular finish missing, with a rock scar in its place. Busting left to finish now requires a pretty big throw. At least it’s airy below Oct 4, 2022
Becca Vincent
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] I biked up Gibraltar and then lead Makunaima! youtu.be/P4ymckFBNg4?t=369
I sped up or cut out all my rests because I was on the wall for almost half an hour, gracious May 19, 2023
Lukasz Fidkowski
Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know how easy it is to get up to the top of this to set up a fixed line for tr solo, and how long is the hike in? Jan 23, 2025
Brayden L
[Hide Comment] I've never timed the hike, but I think it's probably something like 30 +-10 minutes depending on fitness. Uphill both ways though just like your grand-pappy did it.

Easy but consequential scrambling to get to the top via a shoulder climber's left. Jan 29, 2025