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High Expectations
5.11-,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 32
votes
FA: Graham & Oswick
California
> Eastern Sierra
> Mammoth Lakes Area
> Rock Creek
> Patricia Bowl
> Orange Pillar
Description
Increasingly difficult thin changing corners climbing which I found more challenging than anything else I did at PB including several pitches which were rated harder.
Start with a couple of hard moves off the deck, then some easier terrain then an interesting move using a flake to get to a horn that alone would justify the 10d rating. The next 15' involve decreasingly bomber fingerlocks and toecams in the corner and good small nuts if you can hang around to place them. Anchors shortly follow.
Location
A little uphill of Boi-oi-oing in a small right facing corner.
Protection
RPs to red or gold Camalot with emphasis on the thinner stuff.
[Hide Photo] Looking up High Expectations from the base. Pretty much follow the crack splitting the photo in half. Great pitch, easily toproped after climbing Boi-oi-oi-ing!
[Hide Comment] I also thought this was a bit hard for the grade. It gets pretty thin toward the top. There are anchors for a second pitch, but I don't know if it has been led yet; it seems like a third pitch would be possible as well, ending at the Boi-oi-oing P2 anchors.
This climb is located downhill from Boi-oi-oing.
Jul 12, 2007
[Hide Comment] I top-roped the link-up from the top of the second pitch to the top of the pillar. There is an odd stray bolt about twenty feet down and around the anchors of Boioioing -- maybe it was going to be another anchor? I would like to know if this is someone's project because it will be really good once it's cleaned up, but it needs some cleaning. It's probably 12a.
Jan 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] fubar, the stray bolt I believe to be a second-pitch continuation of the route and is an abandoned project. The route name stems from this "expectation" of a second pitch and was never completed. A worthy project with a bit of scrubbing.
Jan 18, 2013
[Hide Comment] The question is, where should it go? I busted some wild moves out around the arete on TR to gain the offwidth right of Boioioing, but they'd need a bolt or two to protect. The logical line follows the cracks, but there is a ton of loose crap stuffed in there--would take a crowbar and a hammer to clean. Was that the original condition of Boi-oi-oing, or was it pretty clean already? I'm willing to go either way, but don't know if the bolted line would be frowned upon when there's such a clear crack system.
Jun 4, 2013
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was pretty high quality, similar to some of the rock found at the Needles. The gear is very good, there are rests, and I thought the move to the anchor was probably the crux.
Sep 9, 2014
[Hide Comment] I named this route "High Expectations" because I had high hopes for the corner above this first pitch. The book above turned out to be choss -- bummer. Maybe it can be cleaned up.
Jan 4, 2016
[Hide Comment] I sent the extension from the top of P1 to the highest set of anchors ground up on-site on 7/24/19. It was a fun 40m pitch that took a healthy rack of small cams and nuts and some on the fly cleaning. I'd say 11c and maybe call it Higher Expectations. It was fairly clean up to the first set of anchors and then proceeded to get worse. I'll probably go back with a hammer and brush and I'll let this forum know if it's cleaner.
Jul 29, 2019
Avg: 3.5 from 32
votes
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Las Vegas
This climb is located downhill from Boi-oi-oing. Jul 12, 2007
Babylon
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Tennessee
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Bring plenty of finger sized cams. Aug 27, 2022