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Nirvana

5.11+, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 39 votes
FA: Jay Smith, 1993
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Main Formation > W Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description

Climbs the Arete to the left of Hospital Corner. First pitch follows the beautifull orange arete through thin delicate moves to a bulge, then up dikes to a preplexing finish. One 60m rope will get you close to the ground. Carefull or you'll drop someone on the lower off. The second pitch climbs even thinner and more balancy moves past a few bolts to the anchor.

Location

To the left of Hospital Corner

Protection

9 draws.

Metolius rappel hangers at top of first pitch (meant for rappelling, not lowering). Standard bolt anchor with quicklinks/rings at second anchor. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

past the crux, working my way up the arete.
[Hide Photo] past the crux, working my way up the arete.
Rappelling off Nirvana
[Hide Photo] Rappelling off Nirvana
Climbing Nirvana on TR, photo taken from the ground.
[Hide Photo] Climbing Nirvana on TR, photo taken from the ground.
trying my best to figure out how to pull the last moves.. must be a broken hold somewhere!!
[Hide Photo] trying my best to figure out how to pull the last moves.. must be a broken hold somewhere!!
Nirvana hang dog
[Hide Photo] Nirvana hang dog
Catching some exposure above the second belay.
[Hide Photo] Catching some exposure above the second belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] We rapped from the first set of anchors, and our 70mm rope JUST made it to the ground. Nov 7, 2010
Louis Mullerleile
Sacramento, California
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] A bold line. The second pitch has a strong beginning sequence, and eases up significantly after getting through the second bolt. Both pitches are excellent climbs with a variety of fun, delicate moves. I thought that the second pitch was easier than the first, and the supplemental pro on the second pitch is unnecessary(it is well bolted). Do both pitches for the full experience! Oct 7, 2014
Short Fall Sean
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] 2nd bolt is a bit loose, and it protects the crux. Maybe bring a wrench if you're heading up on this. Jul 18, 2016
almostrad
BLC
 
[Hide Comment] Highly recommend linking through the second pitch; deserves more traffic.
Bring many runners, rope drag can get a bit heinous due to the nature of arete climbing. P2 anchors have Metolius rap hangars so be prepared to abseil. Sep 12, 2020
Christian Schwarzer
Bella California
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] The second anchor consists of the same two Metolius rappel hangers as the anchor after the first pitch (as of Sept 2023, no chain links). Combine p1 and p2 in one beautiful long pitch with a 70m rope and a long sling in the p1 anchor. The starting moves on the second pitch provide some fantastic exposure. I placed a 0.5 near the top of p2, though probably will run out that section next time. Two raps bring you back down. Sep 29, 2023