PRINT: Rock Climb Pentapussy, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Pentapussy

5.10-, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 10 votes
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Maybird Slide Area > Maybird E Side

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Climb up and right making some very balancey moves to gain the arete. Climb up the arete to a nice finger crack that turns hands (the top section of PetThePussy), aim for that small tree growing up and right, rap from the tree. 5.10-

Location

Start out of the same pit as Feline Stall Tactics and PetThePussy. Climb up and right.

Protection

A light selection of TCU's and some hand sized cams. QD's, maybe some replacement webbing for the anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Buchanan

5.8

This thing is really cool. No really hard moves, just a sweet position. If you in the area, this climb is a must do. Bring some C3s/TCUs or small stoppers to protect between the bolts. Needs more ascents to be cleaned up a bit... Aug 17, 2010

bus driver

Props to the FAist. Really fun moves right on the arete. This was my favorite route at Maybird.

Anchor webbing looked pretty good as of 5/26/12 Jun 3, 2012

Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT

5.10-

Gets a page and half photo in the Granite Guide with only 1 star..... Better than expected. Cool position on great rock with awesome views! Crux is the scramble, be careful of loose rock. Jul 12, 2019