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Kingdom Come
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A0
Avg: 3.8 from 40
votes
Routes in The King Wall
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Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chronic Fixation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Royal Pain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, Aid, 270 ft (82 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | (P1) Patrick Purcell, Don Mellor 7/1989 (P2) Patrick Purcell, Dominic Eisinger 8/1992 (P4) Patrick Purcell, Dominic Eisinger 1993 |
| Page Views: | 6,515 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Rafiki on Jun 25, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
A slightly overhanging line on one of the Adirondacks's most impressive faces. The 1st pitch is pumpy climbing on good holds. The underclinging 2nd pitch with insecure smears will test your forearms and endurance.
Location
To the right of Chronic Fixation, starts on top of a small ledge. Climbs horizontals up and left, then back right to the anchors below the obvious diagonal black roof. Climb out the roof to another fixed anchor. Rap to the ground with 2 60m, or rap to the pitch 1 anchor, then to the ground.
If you want to continue on, there are two pitches above.
Pitch 3:
Aid out the arching roof via a nice bolt ladder, until it is possible to move right to a spacious ledge (The King's Couch). Although this pitch is short (20 feet), it is often wet. (A0)
Pitch 4: ("Clipping in Space")
Move up left to a nice horizontal relief, then back tackle the 12a boulder problem. Once you've mastered that, move up the left-facing crescent to a slabby exit over a bulge. End at a fixed anchor on a balanced block. (5.12a / 90')
If you want to continue on, there are two pitches above.
Pitch 3:
Aid out the arching roof via a nice bolt ladder, until it is possible to move right to a spacious ledge (The King's Couch). Although this pitch is short (20 feet), it is often wet. (A0)
Pitch 4: ("Clipping in Space")
Move up left to a nice horizontal relief, then back tackle the 12a boulder problem. Once you've mastered that, move up the left-facing crescent to a slabby exit over a bulge. End at a fixed anchor on a balanced block. (5.12a / 90')
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