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No Parking

5.10c PG13, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.6 from 24 votes
FA: unknown
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Parking Lot Rock > Parking Lot Rock - West
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is a fun hidden gem that does not see a lot of traffic. If you are bored with climbing the same old routes, check this one out.

Scramble up a short pitch of 5.2-4 to a large belay ledge below the LF corner. Climb the overhanging corner with liebacks and stems. The lieback section is protected by a #4 BD micro nut, so make sure you have a good directional so that you don't zipper your gear in a fall. Place a blue alien at the lip, and crank to the easier climbing above.

Location

The crux corner is the obvious LF corner high on the right side of the wall.

Protection

Gear to 1 inch for the route, a #3 camalot is helpful for the anchor.

The two smallest ballnuts are useful for a directional at the start of the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Midway up No Parking.
[Hide Photo] Midway up No Parking.
Kristin coming up. This is just after she crested the steep beginning, and is coming into the mellow upper portion.
[Hide Photo] Kristin coming up. This is just after she crested the steep beginning, and is coming into the mellow upper portion.
The route...
[Hide Photo] The route...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] A nice way to approach this is to climb batwings, and then find the rap station for "Pave Paradise". That puts you on the large midway ledge which you traverse 100ft to the start of this route. After which you can rap PP again to with a single 70m. May 5, 2015
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] The crux has a fixed pin currently and there is plenty of opportunity for small gear. It is not PG-13. Jul 6, 2022