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Mind Bender Direct

5.10- PG13, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 43 votes
FA: FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975 FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails):
Connecticut > Central Valley > Cathole Mountain > Main Walls

Description

Climb the slab to a right facing corner, over steep blocks to the large block about 3/4 up. Work your way through the block to the roof, reach up and over and claw your way up for an exciting finish.

Location

Right facing corner / left of Golden Book.

Protection

Fixed gear missing, large cams to protect the roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

working the overlaps back in 2009
[Hide Photo] working the overlaps back in 2009
Mind bender follows the center of the slab to the right facing corner- 1st crux is negotiating the large block 1/2 way up- 2nd is pulling over the small roof
[Hide Photo] Mind bender follows the center of the slab to the right facing corner- 1st crux is negotiating the large block 1/2 way up- 2nd is pulling over the small roof
Mind Bender left, Golden Book Right corner
[Hide Photo] Mind Bender left, Golden Book Right corner

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Greene
[Hide Comment] I think the route is much better when started in the corner just to the left of the slab, but the way above is how the route is presented in guidebooks. Oct 22, 2008
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
[Hide Comment] FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half
FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975
FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails): Al Long, Sam Streibert, 5/1976
FA(direct finish): Ken Nichols, Garry Waltman, 5/1983 May 4, 2009
Leif
[Hide Comment] good lead. Roof protects with #4 BD. Follow the crack from left to right as it changes corners to start. Dont waste your time with the slab start. Apr 7, 2013
Tim Farkas
Albuquerque, NM
5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] agree start left of slab in 5.8ish Pegasus-like corner. Way fun. Crux is gaining short slabby section after vertical about 1/2 way up. Gear is thin thereafter. I found the #4 Camalot (under roof), small wires, and micro cams crucial for protection through the second half. The roof is thrilling at 5.8 or so.

Achoring at the top was a pain -- scope it out first. I used a tree 30' to climbers right and the Pegasus boulder. Jun 13, 2016
Tobias Koch
Garmisch-Partenkirchen, DE
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun and varied amount of moves with sequences that make you think. Lead would be very sketch. One or two bolts would make this thing a masterpiece. Sep 4, 2021