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Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only)
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 8
votes
Routes in The King Wall
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Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chronic Fixation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Royal Pain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Patrick Purcell, Francois Paul-Hus 1979 |
| Page Views: | 995 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Jun 6, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
At the left end of the cliff is a fat, right-facing flake. This is the first pitch of Elusive Dream. This is the only free pitch on this route, and to my knowledge, no one has freed the upper two pitches of aid looming above.
Climb the fun layback/jamming flake to the crux exit moves. Once above the crux, a thoughtful "stand-up" move is encountered...don't pull on the rivets! Choose a nest of tat to clip in to. (Note: There are two anchors at the top, but the one on the right seems to be the more sound of the two.)
Climb the fun layback/jamming flake to the crux exit moves. Once above the crux, a thoughtful "stand-up" move is encountered...don't pull on the rivets! Choose a nest of tat to clip in to. (Note: There are two anchors at the top, but the one on the right seems to be the more sound of the two.)
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