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Lingerie

5.11+, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 60 votes
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 85'
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Frenchman Coulee > Middle E Wall
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Description

Spectacular finger crack!

The first 25 feet are insecure and pumpy with delicate footwork. Above the locks improve greatly and it is possible to reast via stemming over to Sex Party. It's not over though....

Chain anchor.

Location

Right of Sex Party.

Protection

rack to 1" mostly small cams and nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Solo TR on a mixed fog and snow day on 2/2/15 <br> Such a cool line!
[Hide Photo] Solo TR on a mixed fog and snow day on 2/2/15 Such a cool line!
An early ascent of Lingerie, 1985. It was never intended to be a stemming route!<br> <br>
[Hide Photo] An early ascent of Lingerie, 1985. It was never intended to be a stemming route!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dane
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Lingerie was originally never envisioned or rated as a stemming problem or a top rope. Lingerie gets rated from 5.11a to .12a depending on finger size and if you stem off of Sex party, which is easy to do. A bit contrived as a straight in crack but one of the best at Vantage done in that manner. Originally, when the crack and edges were still intact it was the "big brother" of Jihad. Dec 17, 2008
AJ
[Hide Comment] It's great to read your comment Dane. Personally I would stop short of calling it contrived. Obviously the pure thin crack is the prize, and it's not like it requires a major effort of willpower to avoid stemming over to the dihedral. Once I started up the finger crack I didn't even notice it was there.
I led this and Red M&Ms back to back and this one felt harder. My partner, who's also led both, thinks the opposite. So... go figure. Both are totally killer, at least we agree on that. May 23, 2019
hummerchine
[Hide Comment] AGREE!!! May 23, 2019
PTSinner
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Really excellent climb and agree that 11d is accurate if you stick to the finger crack without any shenanigans. Great practice for hard trad climbing because there is an easy bail out if you need it. If you don't place the first couple stoppers and solo the first 15ft, it's so much easier (much like Stems and Seeds). Mar 21, 2020
Jacob Bassett
Nephi, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing climb that gets progressively easier. Well worth the project. Purple(okay) and gray(solid) nut to start with. Aug 16, 2021
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] A really cool layback too; probably sucks to place gear this way but for someone who doesn't care about trad ethics, on pre-placed gear it would be a cool sport route to pink point. 0 jams and 0 stemming :) Mar 27, 2023