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Routes in Erotic Dome
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Erotic City T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vulgar Boot Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Lips S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Leg Lifter, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Volga Boat Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Awfulwidth, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wake Me When it's Over T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bald Women with Power Tools T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Mike Paul, John Mallery & Mike Fogarty, December 1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,785 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Will S on May 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The route starts as a relatively easy handcrack that ends after about 30'. At this point move right and continue in the thinner crack above through a steeper section to a ledgy topout.
The crux is the move to the right when the initial crack ends. It's a reachy and awkward face sequence, and is much harder than the rest of the route, which detracts a bit from the climb IMO. That said, it's still a worthy route.
Rap from either of the bolted anchors described in the comment below or walk off/downclimb either left or right. Having done the walkoff right, I recommend rapping.
The crux is the move to the right when the initial crack ends. It's a reachy and awkward face sequence, and is much harder than the rest of the route, which detracts a bit from the climb IMO. That said, it's still a worthy route.
Rap from either of the bolted anchors described in the comment below or walk off/downclimb either left or right. Having done the walkoff right, I recommend rapping.
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