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Routes in West Wall
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Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnum Force T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Main Vein T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Third Stone From The Sun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | Paul Crawford, Richard Harrison and Nick Nordblum, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 927 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on May 29, 2007 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, and finishes on the Vanishing Point anchor. It is 170', so you need 2 ropes to get down. You might be able to get to the Craven Image anchor, but not sure.
The face is characterized by dikes and a number of knobs. The knobs resemble coconuts, hence the route name. There is a thinish discontinuous crack down low which takes some so-so gear, a long face section, and then a finger crack stemming corner to the anchor.
The FA told a friend of mine (third hand info alert!) that you can sling the coconuts. In my humble opinion, most of those would not hold a fall, as the tops of many of those coconuts are rounded and slopey.
I toproped this climb. It is a very fun toprope, but would be a harrowing lead.
The face is characterized by dikes and a number of knobs. The knobs resemble coconuts, hence the route name. There is a thinish discontinuous crack down low which takes some so-so gear, a long face section, and then a finger crack stemming corner to the anchor.
The FA told a friend of mine (third hand info alert!) that you can sling the coconuts. In my humble opinion, most of those would not hold a fall, as the tops of many of those coconuts are rounded and slopey.
I toproped this climb. It is a very fun toprope, but would be a harrowing lead.
Protection
This climb would be a very, very serious lead. I listed it as R, but it might even cross the line into X. Nuts, Cams to 1". Slings for marginal knob tie offs. There are no bolts on this climb.
One anchor bolt is a rusty 1/4"er. The webbing was replaced 5/07, there is a rap ring and a quick link.
One anchor bolt is a rusty 1/4"er. The webbing was replaced 5/07, there is a rap ring and a quick link.
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