PRINT: Rock Climb Memory Lapse, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Memory Lapse

5.8 R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 1 from 3 votes
FA: Bob Culp
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

The climbing on this route is fairly fun, and a nice way to get in another quick climb at the end of the day after doing another route near by. The route climbs up to a short, left-facing corner with a weird crack/slot in it that won't really take gear. Continue up to some rotten rock, and make a tricky move left with bad feet. One more tricky section moves up and right, then pick your path to the top via easy face climbing. For the most part, the holds are huge but the route has a few sections with questionable rock.

Location

This route is hard to discern from the other routes in the Smoke and Mirrors area using Rossiter's guide. This route starts behind a huge fin roughly half between the start of Smoke and Mirrors and the large tree to the far climbers right on the Italian Arete Ledge. Look for the small, left-facing corner that Rossiter mentions.

Protection

A standard rack. Pro can be pretty tricky or just bad due to the quality of rock, but every now and then good gear is available.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mic Fairchild
Boulder

Did this route (on-sight, free solo) in 1998, but attributed it to Culp after conversation w/ him revealed he had some memory of being in the vicinity in the 'olden days'. Not entirely sure if this was his creation, but it seemed to be the only line that would've been done before 'Smoke & Mirrors' went in, so he gets credit. Mar 29, 2008