Great moves angling left on big awkward holds gain the first couple of bolts. Then work straight up and a bit right on very incut jugs with no feet. deadpoint up to a bad crimp adjust your feet then dyno for the horizontal break and clip the last bolt. Make a wierd traverse move left and then clip the anchors. Very cool climb.
[Hide Photo] The alternate right crimp undercling split dropknee beta. May require less power than the other betas, because most of the motion to the crimp is powered by legs and not pulling.
[Hide Photo] Finding a quick rest before heading into the crux.
I used 7 cheater stones, skipped the 2 stick-clipped draws and grabbed the finishing jug...then I rung the bell at the top to signify my send to the rest of Rumney!
Sep 12, 2007
[Hide Comment] the heel toe cam was the key for me and it involved no hucking at all... a very fun route and im not a boulderer but rather a techy route climber.... i like to climb bouldery routes and find beta to make it look all flowing and smooth... fun times...
Nov 4, 2007
[Hide Comment] Another video: youtu.be/ZnwxV3YHDy4. I used different beta than what’s described in this comment section, but it works pretty well (especially for shorter climbers).
Aug 22, 2020
[Hide Comment] It looks like that second hold (right hand at the start) has a piece that has broken off. You now have to wedge either your pinky or ring finger into the lower right hand corner of the hold to get any purchase. Makes setting up for the move left to the pinch rail a bit more dynamic! Anyone else notice this?
May 21, 2024
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Dixfield, ME
I used 7 cheater stones, skipped the 2 stick-clipped draws and grabbed the finishing jug...then I rung the bell at the top to signify my send to the rest of Rumney! Sep 12, 2007
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Boston / Hanover, NH
Bartlett, NH