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Bilbo Baggins

5.7+, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 230 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Burgers & Fries
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Description

Starts with awesome gear and is clean. It is pretty awesome climbing with a sort of awkward move to get off the ledge about 2/3 of the way up, and its well protected. The Squamish Guide book says this route is 5.8 and I thought it was a little soft even for that rating. Regardless, it was really fun.

Location

South of the Main Wall of Burgers and Fries. Head up a small side trail through the trees, and go right at the wall. You will come to a left-facing groove/dihedral. This groove is the start for Gollum/Sour Grapes (5.7). Just to the left is the start for Bilbo Baggins. Around the corner to the right is Frodo's First Step.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches, rap rings at top

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Connor electing to solo Bilbo Baggins
[Hide Photo] Connor electing to solo Bilbo Baggins
Bilbo Baggins
[Hide Photo] Bilbo Baggins
The many starts of Bilbo Baggins
[Hide Photo] The many starts of Bilbo Baggins

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Clint Landrock
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] In my opinion this is the best crack climb at Burgers and Fries. There is only one 5.9-ish move at about 2/3rds up, and its well protected, the rest is pretty cruiser 5.7 crack climbing. Contrary to the description, the bottom is clean and alot of fun. Jun 17, 2014
Alex Jacques
Idyllwild, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I don't understand the description of this climb. It is clean, easy, and 5.7 - still fun Jul 3, 2014
Scott Stevenson
SLC, UT
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] I agree that the description of this route is really confusing. The route starts with awesome gear and is clean. It is pretty awesome 5.7 climbing with a sort of awkward move to get off the ledge about 2/3 of the way up. I wouldn't call it 5.9 at all. The Squamish Guide book says this route is 5.8 and I thought it was a little soft even for that rating. Regardless, it was a really fun. Jul 5, 2015
Nate Ball

  5.8-
[Hide Comment] The original description was for a route possibly once known as "Sour Grass" but that is called "Gollum" in Bourdon's guidebook. This is the 5.7 that starts in the deep corner. I have changed the description to include what y'all have said, but kept the grade 5.9 because that's what it gets in the guidebook.

Edit 10/17: Changed grade to 5.8 Aug 14, 2015
Tess Wendel
Seattle, WA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This definitely feels like straightforward 5.7 crack climbing. Great for new leaders or folks getting back in the game. Only wish it was longer. Aug 23, 2017
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The righthand start, close to the Sour Grass offwidth, is 5.8 or 9. Oct 31, 2019
gyokuro
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Really fun route! Would definitely recommend. Aug 26, 2020
Uknown Unknown
Vancouver, BC
[Hide Comment] Top 10 for sure, don't sleep on this climb. Will learn lots of safe techniques on this one. Jun 30, 2021
Omid J
 
[Hide Comment] Would be Top 100 if it was 30 metres long. Love this thing. Sep 5, 2024