[Hide Comment] Strenuous; the jams are good but feet aren't. Felt more 10-ish to me, but that's probably in keeping with the sandbagged nature of the rest of Stan's. Jul 26, 2008

[Hide Comment] Stans is probably the best 5.8 crack at sunset, it has gear a go-go and cadillac smooth hand jams wherever you want them. I think you could throw a cam at the crack and it would be bomber! A bolted anchor for Toothpick is off to the right at about two thirds height, but a more fun and natural line takes you straight up the steep crack. A 3.5 or a 4 old BD is useful here. If you have big hands the grade at 9 ish, but my small hands GF stems her way out and gives it a 9 plus. A must do! Sep 24, 2008

[Hide Comment] The top protects with small gear where you need it. I brought a single rack and while a little thought provoking with the massive 3-4" crack in your face, it's all there Jun 23, 2017

[Hide Comment] Looked up at the direct finish to Stan's Crack this weekend to see a white X chalked on a block near the top of the offwidth. Attributed it to pusillanimous gumbies, but upon arrival it seems the block really is starting to loosen. Still feels relatively well attached, but a clear fissure exists along the top edge. It moves up and down slightly if thumped hard.

It's feasible to climb past the block without using it. I definitely wouldn't place gear behind it. It's coming down one of these days. Jun 22, 2020

[Hide Comment] Last weekend a climber took a lead fall on a cam behind the loose block. I was on a nearby route when we heard the unmistakable sound of rockfall. The block broke free and fell to the ground; fortunately the climber, belayer and all bystanders were unharmed. Jul 20, 2022