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Great White Behemoth
5.12b,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 223
votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Valhalla
> L. Superratic Pillar
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This spectacular line takes the best stone up the middle of the SUPERRATIC PILLAR proper. Unlike Happiness, this route has a well defined crux at about the 4th or 5th bolt. Props to HUEY for this Genius creation.
Location
route immediately to the right of Hellion. Hellion starts in a small dihedral that peters out at about 10 feet. Find that feature and then it is one route over.
Protection
9 to anchors
[Hide Photo] Another graceful looking climb by Garrick
[Hide Photo] Super fun climb. Classic for the area! Give it a good brush before you climb. Photo credit: Paul D.
Out of the Loop
Glenwood Springs, CO
Portland, OR
Boulder, CO
Cambridge
Lafayette, CO
Innsbruck, AT
Boulder, CO
Looks amazing, has some fun moves, but far from the best 12b (or any grade, for that matter) in Ten Sleep. It does, however, get shade much earlier than many other routes! Sep 4, 2017
Ten Sleep WY
I would say definatly a great route, but there is much better rock to climb on in the canyon or even next door in FCR Jul 14, 2020
A Crag Near You