Groover (Gaskin Finish)
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.8 from 34 votes
Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jeep and Julia Gaskin - July 1980 |
Page Views: | 32,263 total · 151/month |
Shared By: | saxfiend on Apr 24, 2007 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2024
Details
Laurel Knob Jan 15- Aug 14: All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed to climbing during this period.
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Groover is one of Laurel Knob's signature moderate routes. It has the distinction of being established in a single-day first ascent by noted NC climber Jeep Gaskin and his wife Julia -- on their honeymoon! For much of its length, Groover follows a nice arching crack system with great protection; toward the top, it uses the carved water grooves that are a hallmark of Laurel Knob. Don't let the 5.8 rating or the fact that there's "only" six pitches fool you; this is a long and committing climb with serious runouts on the upper pitches. Start early and bring plenty of water.
For anyone wanting to experience North Carolina climbing at its finest, Groover is not to be missed.
P1 - starting at a large pine tree, climb a right-facing crack system up and slightly left to a ledge with another pine tree and belay (NOTE: this pine is the only place to bail without leaving gear until you reach the end of the fifth pitch). 5.7+, 190'
P2 - Move right from the tree and continue up a left-facing crack that will merge into the arching crack system that is Groover's main feature. Follow this for another full rope length and find a comfortable spot to build a gear anchor and belay. 5.7, 190'
P3 - Continue up the arching crack to a steep bulge; tiptoe over the bulge to the right and onto a sloping platform that makes a comfortable belay station. 5.7, 180'
P4 - Prepare yourself mentally for climbing high above your protection. From the belay, climb high into the crack and place a medium-to-large cam, then downclimb until you can move out right on a bulge with quartz dikes for footing. Continue traversing right about 30' to reach the second of two deep water grooves, then look for gear before heading up (there's supposed to be a distinctive quartz hole in the groove somewhere). Head up the groove for about 100' or so (you may find a gear placement along the way), until you reach some spacious solution pockets and a welcome crack to build an anchor. 5.8, 160'
NOTE: If you were doing the Fischesser variation, you'd continue up the arching crack from here.
P5 - Move left about 15' to the obvious continuing groove; climb this steeper groove past three bolts and one good pro placement in a finger pocket. Finish at a narrow tree ledge with a bolt just below. 5.8+, 100'
P6 - Continue up on easier ground and arc out right to an obvious tree island for a full rope length; after bringing up your second, continue to the right end of the tree island and look for a bolted rap station (the top of P6 on the Groover Fischesser finish). 5.6, 200'
For anyone wanting to experience North Carolina climbing at its finest, Groover is not to be missed.
P1 - starting at a large pine tree, climb a right-facing crack system up and slightly left to a ledge with another pine tree and belay (NOTE: this pine is the only place to bail without leaving gear until you reach the end of the fifth pitch). 5.7+, 190'
P2 - Move right from the tree and continue up a left-facing crack that will merge into the arching crack system that is Groover's main feature. Follow this for another full rope length and find a comfortable spot to build a gear anchor and belay. 5.7, 190'
P3 - Continue up the arching crack to a steep bulge; tiptoe over the bulge to the right and onto a sloping platform that makes a comfortable belay station. 5.7, 180'
P4 - Prepare yourself mentally for climbing high above your protection. From the belay, climb high into the crack and place a medium-to-large cam, then downclimb until you can move out right on a bulge with quartz dikes for footing. Continue traversing right about 30' to reach the second of two deep water grooves, then look for gear before heading up (there's supposed to be a distinctive quartz hole in the groove somewhere). Head up the groove for about 100' or so (you may find a gear placement along the way), until you reach some spacious solution pockets and a welcome crack to build an anchor. 5.8, 160'
NOTE: If you were doing the Fischesser variation, you'd continue up the arching crack from here.
P5 - Move left about 15' to the obvious continuing groove; climb this steeper groove past three bolts and one good pro placement in a finger pocket. Finish at a narrow tree ledge with a bolt just below. 5.8+, 100'
P6 - Continue up on easier ground and arc out right to an obvious tree island for a full rope length; after bringing up your second, continue to the right end of the tree island and look for a bolted rap station (the top of P6 on the Groover Fischesser finish). 5.6, 200'
Descent
The double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.
Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'
Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'
Location
Groover starts at the far left end of the face. Follow the cliff trail to a point where you'll curve around right and back up above the trail at a large pine tree. From here, you'll know you're in the right place if you can see the tree ledge at the top of the first pitch (much higher than it looks).
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