PRINT: Rock Climb Butterbeans, The New River Gorge Region

Butterbeans

5.10a, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 64 votes
FA: Begoon, Artz '83
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Bridge Area > 2 Bridge Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

The connoisseur's offwidth. Steep and strenuous, but you don't have to sacrifice your skin.

Location

Past the trash compactor but before the monkey face

Protection

Up to a #4 BD for the bulk of the climb. Might need a bigger cam if you are afraid you'll blow the easier top part. Bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Love this route! Great shot of Bret climbing

Adam setting off on his onsight of Butterbeans

A rest somewhat before the crux

Butterbeans (5.10a).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Noah Robert
North Conway, NH

Despite the above gear beta I was stoked to have brought two #5s and a #6. Could you protect it sufficiently with just up to a #4...maybe, but just bring bigger gear if you have it, you'll be happy you did. Apr 22, 2024