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Routes in Mt. Moroni
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+ |
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Plan B T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Varco Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Voice from the Dust T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | FA - Joe French, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird (11/98), FFA - Jeff Hollenbaugh, Cameron Tague |
| Page Views: | 5,578 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on Apr 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
Plan B ascends a right-facing corner system through three distinct roofs. The rock is generally good quality and the climbing is quite enjoyable. A challenging route with some incredible positions. The route now goes free, but was originally done at 5.11 C2.
P1 (5.6) Climb the detached pillar/flake via squeeze chimney. Belay off gear.
P2 (5.11a) Climb the splitter finger and tight-hand crack in the face right of the corner to a tree.
P3 (5.11) Continue up the crack through a wide slot to a small stance. Belay off gear.
P4 (5.9-5.10) Make a crack switch and continue up past a pillar via double cracks to bolted belay.
P5 (5.12b) Follow low-angle corner up to below the first large horizontal roof. Climb the tight-hand crack through the roof to a bolted belay above.
P6 (5.12a) Continue up the corner to below a second smaller roof. Climb out this roof to a bolted belay above.
P7 (5.10) Climb the crack in the corner to a third small roof. Move right under the roof and follow the wild hand crack to belay.
P8 (5.9) Continue up the hand crack to the top and belay off 3-3.5" gear.
P1 (5.6) Climb the detached pillar/flake via squeeze chimney. Belay off gear.
P2 (5.11a) Climb the splitter finger and tight-hand crack in the face right of the corner to a tree.
P3 (5.11) Continue up the crack through a wide slot to a small stance. Belay off gear.
P4 (5.9-5.10) Make a crack switch and continue up past a pillar via double cracks to bolted belay.
P5 (5.12b) Follow low-angle corner up to below the first large horizontal roof. Climb the tight-hand crack through the roof to a bolted belay above.
P6 (5.12a) Continue up the corner to below a second smaller roof. Climb out this roof to a bolted belay above.
P7 (5.10) Climb the crack in the corner to a third small roof. Move right under the roof and follow the wild hand crack to belay.
P8 (5.9) Continue up the hand crack to the top and belay off 3-3.5" gear.
Protection
- (1) set of stoppers
- (1) set of TCUs
- (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #4
- Extra #1's
- (1) #5 Camalot
Location
Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10 minutes, start looking for a faint climber's path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall. Plan B will be to the left once the wall is reached.
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