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Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 32
votes
Routes in Below The Old New Place
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Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scandinavian Airlines S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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L Dopa T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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P.M.S. S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mollie's Pained Thoughts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Instant Dogma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 26 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zoe's Whirl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pajarito Burrito T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Peter Gram and Tom McFarlane, 7/87 |
| Page Views: | 3,453 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.
Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.
Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.
Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.
Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.
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