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Hobbit Direct

V4, Boulder,  Avg: 2.2 from 123 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Boulder Natural > Zoo
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Description

Levitate off bad holds and pop to big crimp on arete, continue up easier ground on arete and downclimb route.
Hard sit start. The start feels like trying to squeeze a hippo between your legs.

Location

Arete left of Hobbit Hole.

Protection

Pad, no spotter req.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

you gotta want that hold!
[Hide Photo] you gotta want that hold!
Alex sticking the crux. Photo Mike Mango
[Hide Photo] Alex sticking the crux. Photo Mike Mango
[Hide Photo] untitled

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  V4
[Hide Comment] This thing has the most awkward sit start ever... Jul 26, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
  V4
[Hide Comment] haha definitely agreed matt Jul 26, 2009
andyscott
Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] so awkward.... Dec 20, 2009
BDalhaus
New Gloucester, ME
 
[Hide Comment] funny, i don't find it awkward at all - between the bomber heel hook and the choice of 4 handholds to start, i think it's a good warmup. there's also an interesting variation that matches the crimp after the first move and follows the small seam up and left. Aug 20, 2010
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V4
[Hide Comment] Just my 2¢, but while the first move to the left crimp is hard, the crux for me was getting my right hand up to the little crimp above it without having my left foot slip down onto the ground.

Hobbit Direct starts at 46 second mark:
vimeo.com/33902009 Dec 19, 2011
Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] Any world in which that left heel hook can be described as bomber is a world I don't want to climb in. Dec 1, 2013
Ryan Salazar
  V4
[Hide Comment] An alright one mover. I used the gaston crimp for my right and a higher left heel than the lower left option. Definitely have to use momentum to snag the left hand crimp. Dec 31, 2018
Climber Dan
  V3
[Hide Comment] Feels easier than the version using the slots to the right. Jun 12, 2022
Reese Robinson
Topsham, ME
  V3-4
[Hide Comment] Opted to toe in instead of the heel and palm pressed a high right foot on the start hold for getting up. Apr 22, 2024
[Hide Comment] Clearly a couple different approaches to the first move but I think it’s quite enjoyable rather than awkward. I found a very far left hand pod past the arete worked well, although I was told the “traditional” approach is a much closer left hand with a thumb under-catch to almost make it a pinch. That felt much harder, but the crux either way is finding the right feet to move up after the first move. Nov 20, 2024