PRINT: Rock Climb Four Sheets to the Wind, The New River Gorge Region

Four Sheets to the Wind

5.9+, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 387 votes
FA: Phil Wilt, Carl Samples 1983
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Awesome climb, corner to layback to roof/corner to layback
Enduro-crux with solid placements all the way up!

This route has a bad habit of eating gear, so be careful with your placements so they don't become fixed gear!

Location

climb is obvious overhanging corner on east side of main junkyard area

Protection

Solid gear (normal rack), make sure not to leave it in the climb as there are always a few cams that are fixed somewhere in the initial arch of this climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jean-Christophe Fillion-Robin pulling the big roof moves on Four Sheets To The Wind (5.9+) at Junkyard Wall. Photo by Jeff Dunbar.

Thanks for the pic Gino!

Jean-Christophe Fillion-Robin approaching the big roof system on Four Sheets To The Wind (5.9+) at Junkyard Wall. Photo by Jeff Dunbar.

A New River classic.

Matt Wade cranking through the roofs on Four Sheets to the Wind

Cruxin' out

Pumping the hangs on Four Sheets

Four Sheets on TR

Matt slithering up Four Sheets at the Crux

Four Sheets on TR

Anchoring and giving the thumbs up!

TaKe Me To YoUr LeAdEr!!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte

Choose your path carefully young grasshopper. (the whip is at 1:00 min)
youtube.com/watch?v=Ohigi59… Sep 3, 2014

Pat Light
Charlottesville, VA

5.9

Spectacular and varied. Throw yourself at it with joy.

The Courtesy Plus is just there to remind you that a whole bunch of 5.9 moves all in a row over gear is still technically 5.9. You'll be fine! Oct 1, 2018

Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT

The anchor is indeed loose, the bolts wiggle a concerning amount. You can back it up with the solid tree directly above the bolts. We moved over to another nearby anchor to rappel after cleaning the climb. Nov 18, 2019

Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC

5.9+

This climb is pure awesomeness. Jul 2, 2020

John Nguyen
SLC, UT

5.9+

11/10 route

My beta/ascent: youtu.be/9Ih8a0ClalM Jun 8, 2021

Steven Zafirakis
West Falls, NY

Awesome climb! crack, slab, and juggy roof all in one! Nov 22, 2023

Steven Zafirakis
West Falls, NY

Mostly cams, maybe a stopper or two down low. Trickiest section is transitioning from the low angle crack to the face/slab. Find a good foot onto the face and parallel your body to the wall. Then you have a good crack to your to utilize.

Pulling the first "roof" crack is well protected and easy if jammed properly. I believe it takes a solid #1 and .75.

The top is fun and easily protected. If you're climbing well at or above the grade the top feels "easy" once you start moving. If you're pushing into 5.9 the top will seem intimidating, you just need to place good pro and keep moving, you'll find it's surprising manageable so long as you keep moving and don't pump yourself out.

The top overhang jug roof takes #1's and #2's the pro is above your head so "you're on top-rope". Just let er' rip after placing. Moving up and left, feet underneath you until topping out. Nov 22, 2023