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Sensemilia Sunset
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2.7 from 21
votes
Routes in Nose Area
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Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Last Day In The Rainforest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wrench In My Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 465 ft (141 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Peter White and Whitney Heurmann ca. 1996 |
| Page Views: | 3,778 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Brent Roaten on Apr 5, 2007 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
On one of my first trips to Looking Glass sans guide book and inexperienced with runout slab climbing, I ran into a local who recommended this new route as a good 5.9. It was the perfect sandbag and quite memorable.
Begin about 50 yards to the right of Sundial Crack. The first 50-60 feet is a sea of unprotectable eyebrows (~5.8) ending on a ledge. I would recommend belaying here but didn't the first time I climbed it resulting in some serious rope drag. Pull over an easy, well protected bulge above the ledge. Veer to the right and follow the path of least resistance to a crack which takes good gear. From the crack, head back slightly left and up towards the anchors. As I recall the last 20 feet is pretty hairy unprotected climbing that left me feeling nauseous. I went for it and to my relief found an unusual "thank god" hold just below the anchors that wasn't visible from below. If you are not a well seasoned Looking Glass slabmaster, I would not recommend this as a first 5.9...or even a second or third for that matter!
Addendum:
Per the guide book the route continues on for another 3 pitches:
P2: 5.9+, 150 ft with a bolted anchor
P3: 5.7, 150 ft also bolted anchor
P4: 5.5, 165 ft; descend as for the nose
Begin about 50 yards to the right of Sundial Crack. The first 50-60 feet is a sea of unprotectable eyebrows (~5.8) ending on a ledge. I would recommend belaying here but didn't the first time I climbed it resulting in some serious rope drag. Pull over an easy, well protected bulge above the ledge. Veer to the right and follow the path of least resistance to a crack which takes good gear. From the crack, head back slightly left and up towards the anchors. As I recall the last 20 feet is pretty hairy unprotected climbing that left me feeling nauseous. I went for it and to my relief found an unusual "thank god" hold just below the anchors that wasn't visible from below. If you are not a well seasoned Looking Glass slabmaster, I would not recommend this as a first 5.9...or even a second or third for that matter!
Addendum:
Per the guide book the route continues on for another 3 pitches:
P2: 5.9+, 150 ft with a bolted anchor
P3: 5.7, 150 ft also bolted anchor
P4: 5.5, 165 ft; descend as for the nose
Photos
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