All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > S Side

Gemini Crack

Name: Gemini Crack
Rating: 3.2

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in South Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Southender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Long Dog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dinkus Dog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Beethoven's Fifth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Windwalker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Left Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bloody Alternative T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Bloody Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Jim McEver, David Broemel - 1973
Page Views:	18,328 total · 83/month
Shared By:	saxfiend on Mar 31, 2007
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

One of three routes starting from the Sentry Box Ledge, Gemini Crack is an excellent line with a thought-provoking but well-protected crux. Though officially it's a two-pitch climb, there's no good reason not to do it in one long pitch. Don't miss this classic if you're climbing the South Side.

P1 - Starting on the Sentry Ledge, climb a right-facing corner until you're just below a pair of left-angling vertical cracks on steeper ground. Move right to the cracks and follow them up and left (crux). When these cracks peter out, continue a short distance on easier terrain to a good horizontal gear belay (or to combine pitches, continue up to the anchors). 5.8, 100'
P2 - Continue up through eyebrows and some runout easier ground to the new ring anchors below the old Gemini rap tree. 5.6, 80'

Location

Starts on the Sentry Box Ledge just left of Zodiac. An alleged 3rd class scramble (more of a 5.easy free solo) will get you to the ledge. Double-rope rap from new ring bolts just below the old belay tree gets you back to the Sentry Ledge, then a single-rope rap to the ground.