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> Eastern Royal Arches
Greasy but Groovy
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
Routes in Eastern Royal Arches
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1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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[Redacted] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Bulging Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Hang Dog Flyer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches |
| FA: | Ricky Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, and John Long, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 2,659 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Along with Shaky Flakes, Greasy but Groovy was a milestone in its day. The crux sections are crowded into the third and fourth pitches. The upper pitches are reminiscent of Tulomne routes -- run out 5.9!
I did this route in the early 1990s with Paul Horak, one of the best face climbers I have ever shared a rope with. Although the guidebooks give this route an R/X rating, I don't recall any anxious moments. Obviously, this is not a route for the faint hearted, but if you are confident on 5.11 face -- as were the first ascenders -- then the you can run up the run outs.
I did this route in the early 1990s with Paul Horak, one of the best face climbers I have ever shared a rope with. Although the guidebooks give this route an R/X rating, I don't recall any anxious moments. Obviously, this is not a route for the faint hearted, but if you are confident on 5.11 face -- as were the first ascenders -- then the you can run up the run outs.
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