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Diedre
5.10a,
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 252
votes
FA: J.Cote D. Arey FFA J. Cote B. Read
New Hampshire
> Cathedral Ledge
> Diedre Area
Description
This route is traditional given a 5.9+ rating, but it could just as easily be a modern 5.10. My vote is not to split hairs because they both mean the same thing at Cathedral.
Diedre is possibly the best climb of the grade on the cliff as it offers well-protected, full-length, and full value, mostly crack climbing. Climb it, enough said...
Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.
Pitch 2: (5.9+ or 5.10a depending on who ya ask) Climb up the main corner until it is possible to move right under the roof(use your feet) past an old pin. Clip it. Then mantel on to a ledge to the right of the roof. That was the crux. Belay at a couple of pins and gear on the ledge.
NOTE Sept 2018 COMMENT from user "plytheman": "Just climbed it today (9/30/18) and wanted to give a heads up on the pin anchor after the crux pitch 2. The left of the two pins seems to have a little bend in it that I only realized when my second got up to me and saw it moving. This was after he hung on the crux a bit too... whoops! So clearly they're still holding but one might not for too long. Pretty easy to back up either way".
Pitch 3: (5.8) Climb the picture perfect corner crack. Jam and stem (strenuous work for a 5.8 pitch) past a birch tree growing out of the crack. Belay from the top on small gear.
Pitch 4: (5.4) Make easy moves right along the wide, hand crack to the blueberry ledge, a cool ledge that could sleep a party of 20.
Pitch 5: (5.9) It won't take you long to find the absolutely perfect, hand crack heading up from the ledge. Follow the crack to a tricky exit move and lower angle climbing up to one more bulge (another 5.9 move) jam up to one last mantel. Belay from a tree and take in the scenery.
Location
Look for the birch tree corner above then locate the triple corner steps below.
Protection
Standard rack to #3.5 Camalot.
[Hide Photo] P1's of Diedre, the "Triple Corners" (aka "Triple Ledges")
[Hide Photo] Tim Martel on the last pitch after exiting the rad jam crack (seen from above in Brian Post's photo... The route ends at the pine tree seen in the upper left corner of the photo... Pardon the bu…
Plymouth, NH
This is my favorite 5.10 by far at Cathedral May 11, 2007
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
AZ
southern colo
Maine
Fort Collins
arivaca, az
New York
Bridgton, ME
southern colo
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
W. Lebanon, NH
Los Angeles, CA
I linked P2 and P3, but I can't recommend it (unavoidable rope drag). Linking P1 and P2 is possible. If you placed a directional at the top of P3 (e.g. small nut high off the ledge), you could also potentially link P3 and P4.
If your follower falls on the crux traverse after cleaning the pin, he may get stuck in no-man's-land on the right wall, so have a plan on how to deal with that possibility.
My buddy fell on the pin yesterday 5/10/15 and it held. As rusty as it is, it's nice to be able to essentially top rope the crux! May 11, 2015
Gardiner, NY
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME, SLC
Boston, MA
southern colo
I can't see V1 unless most of the holds broke off Sep 5, 2016
Oakland, CA
Victor, MT
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Doubles of #1-#3 were definitely nice, particularly for Pitch 5. There are definitely spots for the #4, but nothing critical other than protecting the first 20 feet of the route. You could have your second climb up the ramp and reach up and clean the #4 and throw it in a backpack at the base of the climb so you don't have to carry it up.
It looked like you could rap this route with 3 single-rope raps on a full 60M. One from the pitch 5 tree anchor back to the giant ledge. Another from the tree on the right edge of the ledge. And a final rap from a pin anchor with rap rings that will be on your right. I wasn't able to look at the pin anchor for integrity though. Aug 17, 2017
Cambridge, MA
Northfield, NH
Otherwise an all out fantastic climb, loved every pitch (even the funky first one) and the cracks on 3 and 5 are stellar. For what it's worth I only used my #4 a little bit below the last crux move on the fifth pitch in easier terrain. Could probably leave it behind and find other options if you don't feel like hauling it. The easy 4th pitch will happily take the 4 if you do bring it though. Sep 30, 2018
Glen, NH
CO / NM / ME
Salt Lake City, UT
It's all in the feet, and I could see it being harder for shorter people.
-You may be able to link 1 + 2 with slings.
-P3 is not picture perfect, hahaha, but you do get to climb a tree, so that's fun. (I linked P3 and P4).
-P5 was an absolute delight! But not 5.9 compared to Recompense's 5.9 climbing. 5.8 for the first bulge and about 5.8 or + for the last bulge.
Quick descent was nice! Jul 20, 2022
Massachusetts
Boston