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Routes in The Diedre Area
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Budapest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cooney - Russell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Diedre T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Fire Direct Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Fire Until You See the Whites of Their Eyes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Flying Vee, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Kinesis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Last Temptation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Lousianna Bubble Bath T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Underground, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wez, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | J.Cote D. Arey FFA J. Cote B. Read |
| Page Views: | 25,660 total · 119/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 29, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This route is traditional given a 5.9+ rating, but it could just as easily be a modern 5.10. My vote is not to split hairs because they both mean the same thing at Cathedral.
Diedre is possibly the best climb of the grade on the cliff as it offers well-protected, full-length, and full value, mostly crack climbing. Climb it, enough said...
Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.
Pitch 2: (5.9+ or 5.10a depending on who ya ask) Climb up the main corner until it is possible to move right under the roof(use your feet) past an old pin. Clip it. Then mantel on to a ledge to the right of the roof. That was the crux. Belay at a couple of pins and gear on the ledge.
NOTE Sept 2018 COMMENT from user "plytheman": "Just climbed it today (9/30/18) and wanted to give a heads up on the pin anchor after the crux pitch 2. The left of the two pins seems to have a little bend in it that I only realized when my second got up to me and saw it moving. This was after he hung on the crux a bit too... whoops! So clearly they're still holding but one might not for too long. Pretty easy to back up either way".
Pitch 3: (5.8) Climb the picture perfect corner crack. Jam and stem (strenuous work for a 5.8 pitch) past a birch tree growing out of the crack. Belay from the top on small gear.
Pitch 4: (5.4) Make easy moves right along the wide, hand crack to the blueberry ledge, a cool ledge that could sleep a party of 20.
Pitch 5: (5.9) It won't take you long to find the absolutely perfect, hand crack heading up from the ledge. Follow the crack to a tricky exit move and lower angle climbing up to one more bulge (another 5.9 move) jam up to one last mantel. Belay from a tree and take in the scenery.
Diedre is possibly the best climb of the grade on the cliff as it offers well-protected, full-length, and full value, mostly crack climbing. Climb it, enough said...
Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.
Pitch 2: (5.9+ or 5.10a depending on who ya ask) Climb up the main corner until it is possible to move right under the roof(use your feet) past an old pin. Clip it. Then mantel on to a ledge to the right of the roof. That was the crux. Belay at a couple of pins and gear on the ledge.
NOTE Sept 2018 COMMENT from user "plytheman": "Just climbed it today (9/30/18) and wanted to give a heads up on the pin anchor after the crux pitch 2. The left of the two pins seems to have a little bend in it that I only realized when my second got up to me and saw it moving. This was after he hung on the crux a bit too... whoops! So clearly they're still holding but one might not for too long. Pretty easy to back up either way".
Pitch 3: (5.8) Climb the picture perfect corner crack. Jam and stem (strenuous work for a 5.8 pitch) past a birch tree growing out of the crack. Belay from the top on small gear.
Pitch 4: (5.4) Make easy moves right along the wide, hand crack to the blueberry ledge, a cool ledge that could sleep a party of 20.
Pitch 5: (5.9) It won't take you long to find the absolutely perfect, hand crack heading up from the ledge. Follow the crack to a tricky exit move and lower angle climbing up to one more bulge (another 5.9 move) jam up to one last mantel. Belay from a tree and take in the scenery.
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