Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Alan Watts, June 1982 |
Page Views: | 1,611 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This challenging boulder problem is the 2nd pitch finish to Hesitation Blues, and a hand-full of other routes that finish at the Hesitation Blues Anchor. The route climbs with serious difficulty over the obvious roof just above the HB anchor.
From the anchor, cruise for 8 feet on jugs to a good stance just below the roof. Reach up and clip an old, but solid-looking bolt just above the lip. Work your hands over the lip on so-so crimps, hike the feet up, then dyno!, dyno!, dyno! as the pump builds. If you aren't dangling from the rope yet, work your feet over the lip (hint: stem), crank on some side pulls and clip the 2nd bolt (this one much sketchier, rusty 1/4" job with a loose nut). From here a bit of liebacking leads up and left to much easier terrain, and a hand/fist crack where some sort of pro is recommended. Cruise another 20 feet to the Jete anchor.
Its possible to retrieve your gear via rappel, but its a pain since the route traverses so much at the top. Best to trick your belayer into following.
From the anchor, cruise for 8 feet on jugs to a good stance just below the roof. Reach up and clip an old, but solid-looking bolt just above the lip. Work your hands over the lip on so-so crimps, hike the feet up, then dyno!, dyno!, dyno! as the pump builds. If you aren't dangling from the rope yet, work your feet over the lip (hint: stem), crank on some side pulls and clip the 2nd bolt (this one much sketchier, rusty 1/4" job with a loose nut). From here a bit of liebacking leads up and left to much easier terrain, and a hand/fist crack where some sort of pro is recommended. Cruise another 20 feet to the Jete anchor.
Its possible to retrieve your gear via rappel, but its a pain since the route traverses so much at the top. Best to trick your belayer into following.
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