Type: Sport
FA: Tim Kemple sr. 12-99
Page Views: 10,540 total · 48/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Mar 23, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Wickedly-pumpy jug-hauling out the roof start, big moves and swollen forearms. This leads to a weird mantel into a little, pretty comfy nook capped with another roof move, but do not despair, this is the last hard move on the route. After mantling, follow the bolts up the 5.9 slab to the chains.

A really fun climb, though if power and reach are against you, it might be more challenging. I found it to be pretty easy when I was climbing and training in the gym a lot, but now that I've gone all techy it is tough. I did find a totally static way to do the crux so work it out to your personal strengths.

Location Suggest change

Starting on the usually well-chalked holds on the right-hand side of the cave and traversing up and left along the roof.
The start may be wet from seepage.

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts to anchor.

Pre-placing draws as high as you can with a stick recommended, however it is usually better to not stick clip the rope through the second bolt (only the first) as a fall down low can send you pendeluming into the rock at the base.

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