In 2015, Access Fund acquired key privately owned access parcels when foreclosed on by the bank to keep it in climbing-friendly hands. Please park and camp on Access Fund property and take the new trail down. Please donate today at accessfund.org/homestead to secure permanent access and conservation of the Homestead.
Description
This is basically a boulder problem (V0+, V1 or so) to huge jugs, but it's pretty keen. Power up to the stacked blocks that make up the key handlebar hold. There's still some friable crud under your feet on the overhanging part, so take caution.
Location
On the left flank of the Bonetown "cave," before the new slab routes. Look for the stumpy remains of what was a prickly, crotch-nibbling bush at the base (a crag gardener has since cut it down.)
[Hide Photo] Bri snags the really nice jug on the left of the main crack.
[Hide Photo] You can more or less see the sweet stacked block handlebar hold that makes Milkbone (10a) worth climbing. Don't worry... it'll hold :) Old, bad scan of a photo by Hillary Davis.
[Hide Photo] Wendel pulling through the crux of Milk Bone
[Hide Photo] Wendel right past the third bolt, almost at the anchors. This is an extremely short route, but fun to do.
[Hide Comment] D'oh. You're right. It was late, and I get the names mixed up anyway. The short 10a is Milk Bone. Yes, the 5-bolt 11a is Wishbone. Fixed it.
Apr 28, 2007
[Hide Comment] This route was a two move wonder, but still pretty fun. The hardest part was clipping the first draw without getting caught up in the rope for the move out left.
Dec 11, 2014
Avg: 2.3 from 41
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Superior AZ/Spokane WA
Phoenix
Phoenix