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The Virgin

5.10, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
FA: Lee Harrell, 1967, FFA: Paul Gleason, Phil Gleason & Keith Leaman, 1967
California > Inland Empire > Perris Area > Big Rock Area > Main Slab > Main Slab - Lower
Warning Access Issue: Rebolting Complete! DetailsDrop down

Description

This seldom done climb is among the harder offerings at Big Rock but is an unknown obscurity to most. Despite it's rating the climbing is mostly moderate in difficulty with a brief and reasonably well protected crux.

Starts at the base of The Trough and follows an obvious diagonal weakness up and left as it slashes across the main face of Big Rock.

 Reasonably well protected, with the crux smears coming near the end, at a steep section where it joins the route Giant Step. Once past the crux continue up past the last bolt of Giant Step to anchors. 

An easy walk-off exists down the left margin of the face.

Protection

7 bolts, anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul and Phil Gleason and I did the FFA in ca 1967. Previously, Lee Harrell established the route as an aid climb using RURPS. Here's a photo I took of the FFA.
[Hide Photo] Paul and Phil Gleason and I did the FFA in ca 1967. Previously, Lee Harrell established the route as an aid climb using RURPS. Here's a photo I took of the FFA.
Me on the Virgin in 2002!<br>
Great Climb!!!
[Hide Photo] Me on the Virgin in 2002! Great Climb!!!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Stackhouse

  5.10
[Hide Comment] I remember the crux bolt of Giant Step having been simply a smaller size stud, sans the hanger. One might have to sling a nut around it if it hasn't been replaced (since the 90s when I did these). This is definately a neat route. Aug 2, 2007
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10
[Hide Comment] They should call this route (final test) after you lead this it time to leave big rock behind. Feb 20, 2008
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Wonderful thin slab and friction moves on this left trending line. As Chris indicated in the description, begin near the Trough and follow the faint seam that diagonals up and left. Bruce....my understanding is that the name is derived from the smallish, tightness of the seam/crack that The Virgin follows, but maybe Keith Leaman could shed more light on that fact. And wouldn't English Hanging Garden be the final test? Dec 26, 2010