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Space Cowboy

5.9+, Trad, Sport, TR, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 104 votes
FA: Bob Kerry and Charlie Rollins 1989
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 3 - Windy Point… > Wind Wall

Description

This route starts at a low angle ramp just left of the middle of Wind Wall. Face climb past three bolts to a crack in a groove. The crux is a tricky sequence right around the third bolt.

Protection

There are 5 bolts on this route and a light rack will suffice to protect the rest. I bring a #3 camalot for a spot just above the third bolt a few small cams and a set of nuts. Chain anchors at the top.

Anchors updated by CASA in 2016.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

BM on Space Cowboy
[Hide Photo] BM on Space Cowboy
Patrick on lead. 3D climbing!
[Hide Photo] Patrick on lead. 3D climbing!
Brad Montgomery leading Space Cowboy
[Hide Photo] Brad Montgomery leading Space Cowboy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Great route. I only found 4 bolts and didn't place anything larger than a .75 however. Apr 25, 2009
Allison Quirk
Monterey, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Absolutely outstanding for the grade - very sustained, varied movies, nice exposure! Favorite climb at the Lemmon! Jun 24, 2009
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. First trad/mix lead of this grade for me. I only used nuts and even slung a chickenhead. I agree that the crux is around the third bolt but the rest is keeps one attentive. Feb 16, 2010
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This route is abysmally bad, and I found virtually nothing redeeming about it. The rock is solid, so I guess that's good.

The movement is terrible, the bolt placements are bad, the protection isn't great, and it's just not fun. I'd avoid it if at all possible. May 27, 2012
Jefe Bret Harte
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Awwww, Peter. Too bad you had a bad time on this route. Most people like it and it's an acknowledged three star classic.
Sounds like you need a hug, brother.

There's one in every crowd. Sep 10, 2012
Brandon Baldwin
Sahuarita, AZ
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] We weren't planning on climbing in this area, but rain in our planned area forced us to Windy Point. I had only brought agressive down turned climbing shoes and my toes were killing me especially at the stance to clip the third bolt. I would recommend some climbing shoes that smear well for the early slabby moves. The crux is just above the third bolt (glad that bolt was there!) and I felt the best climbing was from the crux to the top, but I am not a fan slab work. Trying to place gear above the fourth bolt kept this climb exciting. I only brought nuts with me this time and I liked the placements, so I wouldn't carry anything different next time. Jul 15, 2013
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I think this climb is quite good as a pure lead onsight, but probably not as good otherwise. Some of the movement is inobvious and technical, some of the gear is pretty small and fiddly, and if you're not careful you can miss a good placement and find yourself 15 feet above the last bolt wondering what you missed. Gear beta: tiny to medium nuts and cams 00-0.5. I placed 2 blue (#1) Metolius. Mar 5, 2016
Tatiana APD
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] No. Just say no.
This route is sketchy af. Oct 30, 2016
[Hide Comment] The fixed anchors (bolts and/or top-anchors) on Space Cowboy have been replaced. For more information on CASA's anchor replacement efforts and for a complete list of updated climbs: theclimbershome.org/anchor-… Mar 5, 2017
[Hide Comment] If your new to lemon get use to this. This route is great! Mixed gear classic lemon 5.9. Bolts where needed and pro in between. Take some nuts and a light rack .1-#2 and your smiling the whole way up this funky pitch. Mar 7, 2020
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Got on this for the first time in a few years and I remember why I liked it. Once past the initial boring slab, you enter a very three-dimensional groove/water streak that demands a combination of stemming, mantling, and generally thinking with all your limbs and body positions. The gear is occasionally on the small side but actually quite solid, and there are enough bolts to keep it well within the safe zone. I almost wonder if the folks who found it terrible were on Horton Hears a Who, which is much harder, scarier and less interesting. May 27, 2020
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] 1) My 60 meter cord, when set up as a TR solo, just reaches the ground from the anchor. 2) Maybe I'm getting old, but I found this to be quite hard. Jan 23, 2021
John Steiger
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I have to join those questioning the critics of this route. If you don't like this climb, then Windy Point and Bear Canyon — which have the best stone on Mt. Lemmon except for the summit crags — are not for you. Great rock, wonderful placements, thought provoking movement. Could this be one of Bob's best FAs? Mar 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] This route and windy point is not for you if you got an ego… definitely a fabulous climb
Upgrade your skills don’t downgrade the routes Jul 10, 2022