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Doric Dihedral
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3.6 from 7
votes
Routes in Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab
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Far Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Pasta Salad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Burger Madness T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A Side of Fries T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Hobbit, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Beware the Future S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Doric Dihedral T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Dinky Dinkster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Wild Turkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Satan's Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Omen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Purgatory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Enchanted Devil T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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To Live is To Fly V7 7A+ PG13 |
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666 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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667 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Roger Briggs and Steve Nelson, 1971. FFA: Chip Ruckgraber, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 2,124 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Mar 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
I am not the authority to provide historical info on this route nor can I tell you how the dihedral fits into the classical order of Greek architecture. I can tell you of its monumental early free ascent (you are still my hero Chip)...Hey, he made a cover shot!
Doric Dihedral is one of the quintessential 5.12 "old school" routes in Boulder. Fading into sublime obscurity and rarely free-climbed in the original fashion. Hard moves including aesthetic palming and stemming up a leaning, hanging corner and a clenching mantle move provide the challenge.
Protection...I first climbed DD in the mid 90s and the last time sometime in 2002 (has anyone replaced anything?). At the start is the first (modern) bolt for BTF. I "think" there used to be a pin here for DD?? After some hard bouldery moves, the rock becomes jig-saw like and twists up into a corner with (at the time good) pins and some good supplemental gear. Above the interesting geology is the smooth, tan-colored fine-grained rock of choice Flatiron climbing. The dihedral definitely steepens here and provides a demanding stemming sequence past this "aid-bolt". Placed whilst in aiders, to the free climber, it's too high to easily clip. For many years it has donned a ratty, whitened piece of tatty poot. Yikes! If it has not been replaced yet...the bolt should be...the question may be to either lower it or extend chain from it??? Comments???
Once past this crux there are two choices...A possible escape out right to the bolt anchor of the neighboring 2 routes or to fully COMMIT!
Up above in the looming overhang and upper corner was/is a nest of ratty slings connected to...JUNK!! The true crux of the route! Are you a believer? You must believe or you could succumb to slab-splatter...Yuck!! Not to spoil the fun but it's that eye opening mantle and a surprise finish...
This route will always remain sacred to me...It truly is an amazing line but I will remember it most for the experience shared with my climbing companion on one occasion. Thank you Cameron, you are still missed....
Doric Dihedral is one of the quintessential 5.12 "old school" routes in Boulder. Fading into sublime obscurity and rarely free-climbed in the original fashion. Hard moves including aesthetic palming and stemming up a leaning, hanging corner and a clenching mantle move provide the challenge.
Protection...I first climbed DD in the mid 90s and the last time sometime in 2002 (has anyone replaced anything?). At the start is the first (modern) bolt for BTF. I "think" there used to be a pin here for DD?? After some hard bouldery moves, the rock becomes jig-saw like and twists up into a corner with (at the time good) pins and some good supplemental gear. Above the interesting geology is the smooth, tan-colored fine-grained rock of choice Flatiron climbing. The dihedral definitely steepens here and provides a demanding stemming sequence past this "aid-bolt". Placed whilst in aiders, to the free climber, it's too high to easily clip. For many years it has donned a ratty, whitened piece of tatty poot. Yikes! If it has not been replaced yet...the bolt should be...the question may be to either lower it or extend chain from it??? Comments???
Once past this crux there are two choices...A possible escape out right to the bolt anchor of the neighboring 2 routes or to fully COMMIT!
Up above in the looming overhang and upper corner was/is a nest of ratty slings connected to...JUNK!! The true crux of the route! Are you a believer? You must believe or you could succumb to slab-splatter...Yuck!! Not to spoil the fun but it's that eye opening mantle and a surprise finish...
This route will always remain sacred to me...It truly is an amazing line but I will remember it most for the experience shared with my climbing companion on one occasion. Thank you Cameron, you are still missed....
3 Comments