Muir Wall
5.10 C3-,
Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 33 pitches, Grade VI,
Avg: 3.8 from 36
votes
FA: FA Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 1965 / FCA Steve Grossman, 1990
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 2. Southwest Face
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The Muir Wall is an outstanding route that follows a beautiful natural line of crack and corner systems just left of The Nose. Although moderate in grade this route sees relatively little traffic due to it's very sustained and demanding nature, which requires lots of technical aid climbing. This route has been climbed at 5.9 C4 but most parties will probably want to bring some pins and a hammer to keep the grade at A2. For more detailed info and topos look at the "Yosemite Big Wall Supertopo" guide book.
Location
The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to a large left facing dihedral just left of Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.
Protection
Standard Gear: cams in triples from .5" to 3", an extra 0.75" or two, and doubles in Black Diamond 4" to 5" equivalent. Micro cams are very useful on many pitches, bring doubles if you've got em. Bring a solid set of nuts including offsets, as well as one or two sets of micro nuts (incl. offsets). Bring a single medium hook, but you could possibly use a beak instead on the 1-2 hook placements on the route.
Clean Rack: bring two wide cam hooks (narrow may work as well) and as many beaks as you've got (at minimum, bring doubles in all sizes, but ideally several more). Offset cams, ideally doubles in the smaller sizes. Totems (especially black to yellow) were great for the strange shallow scars on the upper pitches. Ballnuts.
Nailing Rack: bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and 1-2 beaks in sizes small, medium, and large.
[Hide Photo] C3/A2 splitter up high, cant remember the pitch number. Its a fun one tho!
[Hide Photo] Pitch 23, C1 fantastic!
[Hide Photo] Pitch 23, C3 (1st crux).
[Hide Photo] Miles and I fixed down to the Crossroads Bivy from the top of P19. The Cossroads is one of my favorite bivy ledges on El Cap. It is sloping however, so a portaldege is nice.
Overall a super classic route. One of the best bivies on the Cap is to the left about 80' of the start of the huge dihedral near the top. Some funkiness to get there (easy 5th traverse) but oh so classic.... Mar 6, 2007
...
Redmond, OR
Yosemite Valley
Beta:
The C2+ sections on the Muir Blast were pretty straight forward and seemed easy for the grade. But the first ten pitches are often flared and burly (though the gear is good), so they take longer. All the lower outs have fixed gear and the P7 anchor (Sloan Topo) is now bolted. Be prepared for lots of camhooking above Mammoth. The traversing pitches into the upper Dihedral are also pretty straight forward, but be careful of the haulbag getting stuck on flakes during the lower outs! Nov 6, 2020
Golden, CO
Trip report from a solo ascent in spring 2021 May 23, 2022
MT
Northern AZ