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Muir Wall

5.10 C3-, Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 33 pitches, Grade VI,  Avg: 3.8 from 36 votes
FA: FA Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 1965 / FCA Steve Grossman, 1990
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > B. El Capitan > 2. Southwest Face
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Description

The Muir Wall is an outstanding route that follows a beautiful natural line of crack and corner systems just left of The Nose. Although moderate in grade this route sees relatively little traffic due to it's very sustained and demanding nature, which requires lots of technical aid climbing. This route has been climbed at 5.9 C4 but most parties will probably want to bring some pins and a hammer to keep the grade at A2. For more detailed info and topos look at the "Yosemite Big Wall Supertopo" guide book.

Location

The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to a large left facing dihedral just left of Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.

Protection

Standard Gear: cams in triples from .5" to 3", an extra 0.75" or two, and doubles in Black Diamond 4" to 5" equivalent. Micro cams are very useful on many pitches, bring doubles if you've got em. Bring a solid set of nuts including offsets, as well as one or two sets of micro nuts (incl. offsets). Bring a single medium hook, but you could possibly use a beak instead on the 1-2 hook placements on the route.

Clean Rack: bring two wide cam hooks (narrow may work as well) and as many beaks as you've got (at minimum, bring doubles in all sizes, but ideally several more). Offset cams, ideally doubles in the smaller sizes. Totems (especially black to yellow) were great for the strange shallow scars on the upper pitches. Ballnuts.

Nailing Rack: bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and 1-2 beaks in sizes small, medium, and large.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Air time...
[Hide Photo] Air time...
Doing some camping on the road
[Hide Photo] Doing some camping on the road
3rd pitch, penduluming !
[Hide Photo] 3rd pitch, penduluming !
Hey brah...
[Hide Photo] Hey brah...
Got jugs?
[Hide Photo] Got jugs?
Muir, pitch 24(?)
[Hide Photo] Muir, pitch 24(?)
Charging up pitch 28.
[Hide Photo] Charging up pitch 28.
Pitch 6 traverse, before the rain.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 6 traverse, before the rain.
C3/A2 splitter up high, cant remember the pitch number. Its a fun one tho!
[Hide Photo] C3/A2 splitter up high, cant remember the pitch number. Its a fun one tho!
Pitch 23, C1 fantastic!
[Hide Photo] Pitch 23, C1 fantastic!
Pitch 23, C3 (1st crux).
[Hide Photo] Pitch 23, C3 (1st crux).
Miles and I fixed down to the Crossroads Bivy from the top of P19. The Cossroads is one of my favorite bivy ledges on El Cap. It is sloping however, so a portaldege is nice.
[Hide Photo] Miles and I fixed down to the Crossroads Bivy from the top of P19. The Cossroads is one of my favorite bivy ledges on El Cap. It is sloping however, so a portaldege is nice.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

426
  5.10 C4-
[Hide Comment] We did this route clean several years ago and I highly rec an arsennal of small aliens, both offset and normal. The crux is a little bit rotten.

Overall a super classic route. One of the best bivies on the Cap is to the left about 80' of the start of the huge dihedral near the top. Some funkiness to get there (easy 5th traverse) but oh so classic.... Mar 6, 2007
[Hide Comment] FCA: Steve Grossman, 1990 Jan 21, 2012
Tate Shepherd
Redmond, OR
[Hide Comment] I solo'd this route from mammoth terrace this spring, (I had climbed freeblast with a friend who helped me haul to mammoth terrace, the rest was done solo). It went well, and I highly recommend it as a solo. The aid is very moderate, and the only difficult part to do alone is the traverse into the Muir wall dihedral system from below the Shield headwall, and the final traversing pitch near the top out. If your interested in a full write up with videos and pictures, check it out on my blog here tateshepherd.com/blog/ Jul 24, 2017
[Hide Comment] This route is incredible. Did it in 1997. Ripped off a large flake around p.23 or so (the 'loose flake' in the Big Wall guidebook at the time) which was scary as hell. No one else on the route for 4 days. Quite an amazing adventure. Skip the nose; do this.... May 7, 2019
Nick J
Yosemite Valley
[Hide Comment] Climbed the first 2/3 of this October 2020 (bailed at P18). All the anchors up till then are bomber.
Beta:

The C2+ sections on the Muir Blast were pretty straight forward and seemed easy for the grade. But the first ten pitches are often flared and burly (though the gear is good), so they take longer. All the lower outs have fixed gear and the P7 anchor (Sloan Topo) is now bolted. Be prepared for lots of camhooking above Mammoth. The traversing pitches into the upper Dihedral are also pretty straight forward, but be careful of the haulbag getting stuck on flakes during the lower outs! Nov 6, 2020
Tony Nichols
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] bigwalltdawg.com/2021/05/02…

Trip report from a solo ascent in spring 2021 May 23, 2022
Skeletor 69
MT
  5.8 A2+
[Hide Comment] Apparently after pitch 28 in the bigwall topo, the move is to head straight up into the final roof pitch of Quo Vadis. While I havent done this, i can personally attest that the penji and 5.8 tension traverse on the OG muir going left is scary, not that aesthetic and has lots of potential for ropes getting stuck.... just my 2 cents :) Incredible route! Mar 20, 2024
Tyler M
Northern AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Had the pleasure of climbing this beautiful rig in late October of this year. Such an amazing route! Amazing bivy ledges for most of the climb. We have a very detailed, pitch-by-pitch beta sheet that we created, if you want it send me a message. Here is some summary footage of our shenanigans: youtube.com/playlist?list=P… Dec 10, 2024