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Routes in The Charlatan
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Bad Fortune T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beach Vibes V4 6B |
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Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fancy Free T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gemstone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Northwest Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Pins and Needles T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Spooky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Superstition T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Valley Guy, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Laeger, Smith, Jaffe (1976) |
| Page Views: | 15,011 total · 69/month |
| Shared By: | bbrock on Feb 22, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is a super high quality 3 pitch route around the corner to the right of Spooky. We rapped into this route from the gully between the Charlatan and the Sorcerer. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.
Pitch 1- Climb slippery slab to a slightly right leaning crack, then straight up to a bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.9
Pitch 2- Crux. Beautiful layback/finger crack. Perfect pro. Move left into the crack via a couple of face moves and launch off on a perfect layback/finger crack. This pitch is short but pumpy. 5.10
Pitch 3- You can continue to the top of the Charlatan or bail off left onto the second Spooky anchors. 5.9
Pitch 1- Climb slippery slab to a slightly right leaning crack, then straight up to a bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.9
Pitch 2- Crux. Beautiful layback/finger crack. Perfect pro. Move left into the crack via a couple of face moves and launch off on a perfect layback/finger crack. This pitch is short but pumpy. 5.10
Pitch 3- You can continue to the top of the Charlatan or bail off left onto the second Spooky anchors. 5.9
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