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Three Birches
5.8+,
Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.5 from 116
votes
FA: S. Streibert, J. Reppy, H. May Sept 1963
New Hampshire
> Cathedral Ledge
> Lower Left Wall / Ven…
Description
2022 Note- Rockfall from Retaliation has produced less-than-desirable condition at the base and on the route, especially P2. See COMMENTS !
A nice climb, stout in the grade...
Very aesthetic...
Pitch 1: Follow the arch up and right (harder than it looks). Focus on foot work though the feet are slick from wear (this section can be wet too, joy).... After the arch, follow cracks to a clump of trees belay from trees or build an anchor in the cracks....
Pitch 2: Continues up thin cracks to gain a huge layback offwidth flake.... Follow the flake up to a left-facing corner.... Climb the corner and mantel (a little tricky, look for less than obvious pockets).... From here, climb slabs, then exit right to a cluster of trees to belay (same finish as Fun House (5.7).... Easy climbing to the Barber Wall ledge....
Location
In the middle of the lower, left wall, you will see an obvious right-leaning arch.... The first pitch climbs this feature and cracks above....
Protection
Trad gear, a few fixed pins and an old fixed cam.... Belay from trees and gear....
[Hide Photo] You'd want a smoke too if you were laybacking a granite slab in brand new PAs. P1 of Three BIrches. 1974
[Hide Photo] Some beta to help you get to the right spot. Three Birches is obvious once you get up the right trail.
[Hide Photo] Looking down pitch 1, some of the best climbing on the lower left wall.
[Hide Photo] The runout at the end.
[Hide Photo] P2 Right before awesome finger crack - "Which way?"... "That way"
[Hide Photo] Mike C. coming up on P1 belay.
[Hide Photo] Moves right after 1st gear placements. This was the crux of P1 for me.
[Hide Photo] The leaves are starting to get some color... And my Dad is finishing up the final slabs on the Birches...
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
southern colo
portland,me
Boulder, CO
Bridgton, ME
Seattle
Norwich, VT
The P2 crux - slab mantle over a bulge - seemed bizarre for the grade and poorly protected; I escaped right as Peter Lewis described. The flake was cool though - wished I brought the #5. Overall, not sure I would repeat the last pitch. Sep 10, 2018
Massachusetts
My $.02 Aug 24, 2020
Sharon, MA
MA
Barrington
Bridgton, ME