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Routes in East Face
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Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bird Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blue Velvet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Captain Fingers T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gallows Pole (direct) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Hanging Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Lady Luck T R |
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Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mamushka T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Marky Marc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey Flower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nearly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Opus 7 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Pinch a Loaf S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Poodle Power T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stone direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Swallows Tale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thin Crust T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 435 ft (132 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.77622, -120.30784 |
| FA: | Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954. |
| Page Views: | 7,726 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Feb 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This Sugarloaf classic climbs the chimney and crack system to the summit of the south pinnacle.
Climb a ramp and blocky rock up the right side of The Fang, to an alcove.
Climb a 5.7 chimney to a good belay.
Move up and left to another chimney and follow it to a belay ledge in the South Notch.
From the north end of the notch, climb a 5.7 arch to it's top. Turn the corner and follow a trough to a cave beneath the summit.
Continue to the summit.
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