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Routes in Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
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Big Bang, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Buddha Head V2 5+ |
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Commencement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Corpus Delicti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dave the Dude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deerhunter, The V0 4 |
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Detox V3 6A |
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Doppler Effect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Double Helix V4 6B |
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Drop the Anchor S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fear of Relegation, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fonz, The V6 7A |
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Good Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gratuitous Crotch Grab V0 4 |
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Grunge Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inhibitor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jack in the Pulpit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King Me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Learning Curve, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Martin Rides Again S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Inhibitions V3 6A |
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No Return T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nolo Contendere S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Out on a Limb S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Outback T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pearl, The V5 6C |
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Physical Graffiti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rifleman, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shelter From The Storm T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sick Puppies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Eye V2 5+ |
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Silently Does the Sun Shine T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Soul Ram S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Dario S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Underling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet and Tasty V1 5 |
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What's Right with the Underling? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, Ron Snyder, 8/'83 |
| Page Views: | 10,027 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 9, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A classic climb, love it or leave it. Both the technical difficulty of and physical effort required for this climb are body-size dependent.
I've heard so many comments about the likely use of a stealth-rubber wet suit, a full-body tape glove, king-kong handjams, etc... to know it isn't just me that thinks this is a workout. It is more physical than technical, I guess, because it seems that most people who try it make it, but everyone always says how hard it was.
Start in a thin hands crack and work your way up to a wide spot. Spend quite some considerable effort trying to get into the crack here, then consider that it's going to be equally hard to get right back out of it in just another 5 meters more. Jam the fists to off-fists section above the squeeze and then cruise to the top on better jams.
The bottom is easier is you have small hands, the offwidth might be easier if you have a small body, but other parts may be easier if you have big fists. Your helmet may get stuck in the chimney so leave it off, trail it, or be prepared to suffer.
Location
From the approach to the main wall on Sky Bridge, head right past the first wall encountered to a strange little rock house the size of a garage with a hole through the "artificial ceiling" in the right rear corner (the Underling) and then continue right another 20 meters past some big boulders to an opposing set of corners over roofs. The left-facing corner on the right is "Inhibitor."
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