Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Cameron Landis |
Page Views: | 1,034 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Umph! on Feb 8, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This is fun 5.8 that's mostly 5.4 - 5.7. I believe there are 3 or 4, 5.8 moves.
Start at the wide crack that tapers to nothing, moving left to right. Once the crack ends continue up the obvious short seam (with room for pro), moving left at its top to the first bolt.
From here, move left and up into the obvious crack to the ledge. Clip the second bolt and climb up:
You'll need your two micro cams (purple and blue Aliens) for protection above the bolt enroute to the top. Place the purple first, then step up to the small horizontal crack, and place the blue. . . . Step up and reach high for the jug atop the final ledge.'
Some may find the last move or two above the second bolt a bit sketchy as the small Aliens aren't too great, though worthy. . . but if you're okay with 5.8, and setting pro, then it won't be a problem.
Start at the wide crack that tapers to nothing, moving left to right. Once the crack ends continue up the obvious short seam (with room for pro), moving left at its top to the first bolt.
From here, move left and up into the obvious crack to the ledge. Clip the second bolt and climb up:
You'll need your two micro cams (purple and blue Aliens) for protection above the bolt enroute to the top. Place the purple first, then step up to the small horizontal crack, and place the blue. . . . Step up and reach high for the jug atop the final ledge.'
Some may find the last move or two above the second bolt a bit sketchy as the small Aliens aren't too great, though worthy. . . but if you're okay with 5.8, and setting pro, then it won't be a problem.
Location
This is on the far right side of the Mushroom Massive complex, when viewing from the road. It is right of Wookie and Unknown (the crag across the "corridor" from these).
You can start by scrambling to the ramp at the base of the routes, or from the ground.
NOTE: if you start from the ground, you'll need a two rope rap or a 70m rope to return to the ground. I don't find the scramble up or down from the ramp too bad, and if you start from on the upper-ramp, then it's 100 feet.
The rap station is (two bolts) at the top ledge.
You can start by scrambling to the ramp at the base of the routes, or from the ground.
NOTE: if you start from the ground, you'll need a two rope rap or a 70m rope to return to the ground. I don't find the scramble up or down from the ramp too bad, and if you start from on the upper-ramp, then it's 100 feet.
The rap station is (two bolts) at the top ledge.
Photos
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