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Routes in Thunderbolt Peak
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Austrian Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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North Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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Southwest Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Southwest Chute 1 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow |
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Underhill Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Underhill, Clyde, Robinson, Farquhar, Dawson, Clark, Eichorn - August 1931 |
| Page Views: | 3,029 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
AKA Undertaker Couloir.
Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.
Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.
Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.
Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).
Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.
Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.
Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.
Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).
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