PRINT: Rock Climb Elephant Crack, Palisades Park

Elephant Crack

5.7+, Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3 from 54 votes
FA: unknown
Alabama > Palisades Park

Description

At 5.6 in the guide, Elephant Crack is probably the most sandbagged route at Palisades. The gear placements on the face are small and not easy to find, and the roof traverse is strenuous with good potential for an unpleasant pendulum fall. This is an excellent route, but not a good choice for novice leaders.

Starting on a slightly slabby face, climb to a corner under the roof. Underclinging the roof, traverse right about 25' to an outside corner and escape up the rain gully to the top.

Location

In the Fire Tower Wall section, not far right of the descent gully. Starts below an obvious large roof.

Protection

Small gear (mainly nuts) for the face section; small to medium cams for the roof traverse. Sling trees for anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John Vasik cleaning Elephant Crack

Breaking the "Elephant Crack" into two pitches just beneath the roof for anchor building practice...and for fun.

Part 2

Watch out for large loose block after the traverse.

fun perspective!

Me and Lauren Wright on the "first pitch" of Elephant Crack practicing multi-pitch skills before the roof.

Starting up the route

Looking up at Elephant Crack

Bolt on Elephant Crack, as seen from clifftop

Elephant Crack 09/2021

Still TR for now, want that lead bad though!

Leading Elephant Crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gus Fontenot
Alabama

time to argue! its 5.6.

pro is straight forward--place in crack above your head before committing to traverse.

traverse is EASY. Good hands in crack and lots of positive placements for feet. Once at end of traverse there are jugs to grab.

Only caveat is you really cannot fall from traverse as you will smack the slab below if you didn't place pro far out in crack before starting to traverse. For that reason its not a good climb for beginning leader... Oct 22, 2007

Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA

5.6

The crux of this route favors those with a long reach (either tall, or ape-y, or both). People with a wingspan over 6 ft. will find it easier to place safe, solid protection further out the roof before committing to the crux. It will also be a bit easier to climb the crux.

I'm not saying the route is super-hard for the shorties out there, but I wouldn't be surprised if difference in reach is a factor in the 5.6 vs. 5.7+ debate. Feb 4, 2008

Stonyman Killough
Alabama

I'm with Gus....5.6. Jul 18, 2011

Nathan Self
Louisiana

5.7+

New anchors at the top.
One of the tallest routes at Palisades.
Super fun. Mar 7, 2012

Stonyman Killough
Alabama

Such a fun lead for an intermediate climber, not for novice. May 9, 2012

TurtleHippy

Elephant crack seems to be abit harder for taller folks. I had a rough time with the first move onto the roof, but after last winter my core is a lot more weak than I'd like. I'd say 5.7, but I could see it either way. NEW Rappel anchors at the top! Jun 26, 2012

Ryan Cantor
Salt Lake City, UT

Fun Route! Definitely a must at Palisades. Feb 26, 2014

Kristin Tippey
Corvallis, OR

5.8 PG13

I got on something similar to what I think they’re talking about as elephant crackin pictures but the one where there’s this island separated from the rock, definitely 5.10. Mtnproject is really confusing for palisades, be careful what you try. Elephant crack is definitely more 5.8 pg13 as a trad lead though, just from difficulty placing gear in the pumpy section Mar 24, 2019

Cole Smith

WARNING. There is a loose block at the very edge of the traverse. You don't have to use it, but it is a convenient hold to grab. Felt it shift a little bit this weekend and probably needs to be kicked down. Jan 6, 2025