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This Ain't No Weenie Roast

5.10b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 58 votes
FA: Alan Hirahara, 1998
California > Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Clark Canyon > Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side

Description

Start quickly and climb over a bulge onto a slab. Follow the slab trending left into the corner. Follow the corner, and when possible step right onto the face.

This face provides the meat of the climb. The climbing is steep, but the holds are positive all the way to the anchors.

Location

Located just right of Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen.

Protection

11 bolts, double mussy hook anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A 60 meter will just barely get you down. Oct 21, 2012
Vit
 
[Hide Comment] The crux is the slab after the bulge. The dihedral is easy. The climb is overrated, I would rate it an easy 5.9. Jul 11, 2013
opusgrooves
[Hide Comment] I definitely disagree with "Vit" on the grade. Did this yesterday in the sun and it was full value 10b. I concur the slab after the bulge is the crux, but there are pretty thin face holds up top as well and it takes a bit of finesse picking your way through hidden pockets. Calf burner but definitely 10b. Don't be fooled and head up there as a 5.9 climber thinking you'll onsight her. Awesome climb though! Apr 9, 2018
BAd
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Yeah, Vit's sandbaggin' y'allz. I'd say 10a for this boy, and, yeah, the slab is the crux. Way fun. The corner is fun and cruiser, and the upper face is really exciting. Get on it. Jun 7, 2018
phylp phylp
Upland
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This route was originally rated 10a and was described as having an “exciting finish”. I did it a couple of times many years ago and just recently. This route used to be harder. Something has definately changed at the very top. It used to be blank going ftom the last bolt to the anchors, but now there are big edges to the left that didn’t used to be there. I think it’s possible that someone cleaned some rock in this area and created another pocket and an edge. At least that is my impression. Jun 29, 2018
Leah Rife
Idaho
 
[Hide Comment] I was a bit sketched out by the bolt distance at the top of the route. Lower section is really fun though! Sep 19, 2018