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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 143
votes
Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)
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Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Scrambled Leggs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Banana Peels T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Burning Tendons T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Dragon T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Green Magic in the Hills S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 |
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Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inner Planet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pleasant Surprise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Past & Pleasant S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pleasant Exposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Before the Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prune T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seneca Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crispy Critter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Viper, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mongoose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horrendous Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hit the Silk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Caught My Eye T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Marshall's Madness: Marshall, Christian, & Kauffman - 1955Crack of Dawn: McLaughlin & Janoscrat - 1980 |
| Page Views: | 20,039 total · 90/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
While Marshall's Madness and Crack of Dawn are two separate routes, by far and away the most classic way to climb them is to link one into the other and that is how they are described here.
Begin near the arete left of Triple S.
P1: Climb steep rock to a belay stance (a short pitch).
P2: Continue up the cracks and step right to the overhang. Pull this overhang via a handcrack (steep, obvious from the ground) and continue to the top. Bolted anchor.
Begin near the arete left of Triple S.
P1: Climb steep rock to a belay stance (a short pitch).
P2: Continue up the cracks and step right to the overhang. Pull this overhang via a handcrack (steep, obvious from the ground) and continue to the top. Bolted anchor.
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