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Routes in Main Wall
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Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Acrobat S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Escapade S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4 |
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Fingerrip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flake of Rust S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gallwas Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High Anxiety S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Itwillbegotten S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4 |
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Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Master of Defeet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Misbegotten C3+ |
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MissBeGettin T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nutcracker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Obverse from the Gap S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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One Step Beyond TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plumbline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quantum Leap S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Razor's Edge T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rectum Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock On Left S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thumb Aid Climb, The C2+ |
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Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Topped Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Unnatural Act TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Yellow Jacket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Aid, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Probably 1960s |
| Page Views: | 2,321 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A bolt ladder of truly manky 1960s (or older?) compression bolts, most of which are hanging out of the rock by quite a lot leads to some fixed gear that has "been there forever". A fixed nut, the only good piece of fixed gear on the route, leads to the only placement on the route (small gear) and a ledge up and right. The bolt ladder continues to the top but a nice anchor exists on the ledge before these.
The climb is overhanging so is good practice, obviously, for overhanging aid.
Walk off back.
The climb is overhanging so is good practice, obviously, for overhanging aid.
Walk off back.
Location
The thumb is the overhanging pillar near the top, and to the left of the left climber's trail which is a separate formation from the Main Wall. The climb follows up the rusty bolt ladder on the overhanging face.
Protection
Lots of fixed bolts / rivets / other assorted fixed aid gear. Part of the thrill is how old the gear is but then the FA had quite a safe journey on their then new bolts and pitons. Some may complain if any of this was replaced but I would not be one of those people. Some day it will be a necessity.
Bring lots of quickdraws and some nuts and tieoffs for the hangerless bolt studs plus whatever else it looks like you will want.
Bring lots of quickdraws and some nuts and tieoffs for the hangerless bolt studs plus whatever else it looks like you will want.
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